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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → slic3r profiles for abs
I've come to the conclusion that a single profile isn't going to work for everything. I was trying to get my bridging performance better (without using a fan) now I have gotten all my slic3r profiles screwed up. Please post some of your slic3r settings, I'm trying to get an idea of what works, I'm getting a really good idea of what doesn't.
Here are some settings here, but don't use the temps I have listed, go with 195. Also I have been using Retraction Length 1 and Retraction Speed 50
http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/2012/07/30/slic3r/
Also here is a video where I go through settings with the current version of Slic3r-
Thanks Ian. At least I had the retraction right. I've been following your progress ever since your unboxing video.:)
So I see that from this h tt p://solidoodletips.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/slic3r-printing-filament.png that you're using a nozzle dia setting of .35mm and speeds of 50mms for most of it. I'll try this tonight when I get home from work.
We really need some sort of repository of settings for the different layer thicknesses like what extrusion multipliers and speeds give the best results. My current technique of print, adjust settings, repeat isn't yielding the kind of results I was hoping for.
I mentioned this to brad as well and he said he would make a sticky if anyone came up with a good tutorial. I agree that you need different profiles for different kinds of prints so one good tutorial may not cover much in the scope of things. Maybe there can be a page for just pics of prints and an uploaded slic3r or sf profile. It still wouldn't be perfect because everyone's printer will perform a little differently based on calibration and other stuff, but it would help those just getting started. The best way is still to learn what each setting does and experiment so that you understand fully what you are doing. I think I now have 6 or 7 different saves profiles for different kinds of prints. These would be for quick drafts, rough big pieces, final big pieces not needing low tolerances, high resolution without intricate portions, high res with overhangs, and so on.
Thanks for the reply Jooshs. I was thinking that if someone was having good prints come out a certain layer thickness, extrusion multiplier, perimeter speed, etc. posted their settings, that we might start seeing some common settings over multiple users. That might give us a good amount of data so we could establish starting points to start from. With so many of us together we shouldn't have to reinvent the wheel every time we go to a different layer thickness. There are so many variables like solid layer and infill patterns that it would take a few minutes to take note of all the settings for a particular combination. In the end though we would have references so we could spend more time printing and less time configuring.
I'm getting closer to getting my x,y,z,e calibrated in the firmware and when I'm done I'll post the results so hopefully the next guy can have a closer starting point to what he needs.
My prints have become very consistent and accurate with the slic3r profile that I am attaching. The problem I still have sometimes is with the z wobble due to my earlier production unit with the printed coupling.
My prints have become very consistent and accurate with the slic3r profile that I am attaching. The problem I still have sometimes is with the z wobble due to my earlier production unit with the printed coupling.
i try to use your .ini and it didn't work at all for me... very bad printing after the 2 first layers... will try to do tweak it..
i think you use the original firmware and not the improve marlin one ?
Thank you so very much Jooshs!! I hadn't realized that the profiles were saved In an ini file, this could make things
easier as far as sharing our settings. I hope to try this out when I get home from work. Right now my vision is kinda blurry, my wife shared her cold with me and it's kicking my butt.
I spent a few hours after work last night trying to get your profile to work properly on my machine. I changed the start and end g-code and the bed size to better suit my machine but still not having much luck. I was really hoping that our profiles would work on each others printers and not be proprietary to each printer. I'm going to calibrate my z steps per mm again and try a few different spools of abs to see if those are my stumbling blocks. 188c seems kinda low for the abs I've using, it crumbles instead of a nice smooth extrusion.
It does seem like one of the biggest variables may be the temperature of the hot end... Have you printed your test calibration pieces to make sure the calibrations are creating accurately sized models? Are you using any kind of cooling for the pieces when printing with lots of detail and high resolution?
Yes, I've finally got it calibrated (88,88,2278,104). I was chasing my tail for awhile trying several different calibration models and now I'm happy with the accuracy of my prints. I modified your profiles a bit and it works very good except for the first few layers. I'm thinking that it's probably due to my abs, I'm getting ready to try another spool from a different manufacturer. I still think it's a good idea to share our good print profiles, even though tweaking takes some time, starting from scratch takes longer. Thanks again Jooshs for your settings and Ian for posting all that info on your blog. Once I get things tuned in I'll post a slic3r profile as well.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → slic3r profiles for abs
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