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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → What would - will - I change in the solidoodle ...
Great write up thanks. I hear ya. Learn what I have first. It works and speed is non issue now. i just want reliable prints with some precision .5mm is even fine for now
Hello,
Here are my Slic3r speed settings :
And the result :
Thomas.
Very nice looking print.
The Solidoodle can go pretty fast as is, but the problem is that with the weight of the motor on the X carriage, there tends to be a lot of overshoot on sharp direction changes. This appears as rough edges on corners, and slight misalignment of layers. So it isn't that the Bowden makes higher speeds possible, it's that you can go faster without sacrificing quality.
The limit on speed is more about the extruder at this point than the XY movement. It has to be able to push the filament through that much faster to keep up with the XY speeds. That means melting the filament quickly. You can do that with higher temperatures, but you have an upper safe limit, and extruding too hot can reduce print quality if you can't get the filament cooled down quick enough. Or you can design the hot end in a way that the melt zone is small- less filament has to be melted at a time, and the solid filament has less squishy melted plastic to push against so it can drive the extrusion more effectively. The stock nozzle on the SD may not be the best for high speeds, so once you have the Bowden working the way you want, it would be worth experimenting with some other hot ends.
I'm really tempted to try a Bowdendoodle conversion once my j-head hotends arrive and i get everything working again.
Thanks for the writeup Otatiaro!
Also: I'd recommend thingiverse to upload the STL and maybe the source CAD files for your mount.
Hello,
I'd be very interested to play with better hot ends (reducting the hot chamber size seems a good idea, less melted plastic, but on the other hand you have to melt it faster).
What are those j-heads everybody is talking about ?
Thomas.
Hello,
I'd be very interested to play with better hot ends (reducting the hot chamber size seems a good idea, less melted plastic, but on the other hand you have to melt it faster).
What are those j-heads everybody is talking about ?
Thomas.
Here's some information about the j-head hot ends: http://reprap.org/wiki/J_Head_Nozzle
On the RepRapWiki there's also a list of supplies.
Hello,
Seems nice ... but what nozzle size to order?
SD stock is 0.35mm, but it seems J-head standard is 0.5mm, is it better ? (increased flow ???).
The thinnest wall I design are 1mm, is 0.5mm ok ?
Do you know where to find them in stock in EU ?
I'd have to design a new holder to fit them.
Thomas.
Ok I'm done with this shit ....
Spent so much time trying to improve it, get things tuned, etc, and I can't get any correct print anymore.
I even switched back to stock extruder, but after 10 minutes or so it doesn't extrude anymore, rip the filament and mess up everything.
I'm just fed up, there is always something wrong.
Thomas.
If you look for "j-head mkv" on ebay you will find a seller in the UK that has them in stock in both 0.35 mm and 0.5 mm. He ships with liner for both 1.75 mm and 3 mm filament. That's where I ordered mine. They shipped today.
According to someone on this forum the j-head fit (but loosely) in lawsy's mk4 extruder replacement.
Edit: I have no idea if a 0.5 mm nozzle might be better. I ordered mine with 0.35 mm nozzle.
I understand your making all of these modifications for another reason, like printing super mega fast prints, but I wanted to know about one of your problems that I also had, the warping. I thought it was an uneven bed temp problem but it turned out the platform wasn't level, and I didn't adjust the z-axis screw in the back right either. I got it level using the 3 bed screws under the kapton, moving the extruder around the bed as a reference point to make it even, and then adjusted z-screw until the extender could pass over 3 pieces of paper without touching but not 4, which is about .3mm over the bed. Works perfect now, but your right about bed heating time, like 20 min. to get to around 100C, so that's still a bumber, but I just start that before I do anything else.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → What would - will - I change in the solidoodle ...
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