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Topic: giantarmd200

we brought this the other day  giantarmd200, and it took some time to work out how to set it up, but i hope you chaps can help us out frist of all  this 3d printer as wi fi on it but easy print 3d will not excpet the machine seral number to binded the machine to the app and the 3d printer cant even be seen on my network, so for the time being using the usb that came with it, and  Ultimaker Cura 4.5 cant even dect the printer, any help would be greatful

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Re: giantarmd200

What can I say it is a cloud based printer from Geeetech. I am not a fan of either one.

Have you tried contacting the manufacturer for support.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: giantarmd200

hello
sorry,
D200 has canceled the built-in WiFi module, so WiFi function cannot be used.
Because cura may not recognize D200, I suggest that you can use repetier-host with a baud rate setting of 115200, geeetech came back with reply, what do you make of that, and that you for reading my post

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Re: giantarmd200

what it says is that there is no wifi functionality on it, thus no cloud. Basically, they advertised something they can not deliver on.
You will have to run it plugged into a computer using Repetier Host (free program) and from there, you can use either the Slic3r or Cura slicers that are built into RH.
the baud rate of 115200 is the USB speed protocol, and is not an uncommon setting. I use that speed on my SD4s with no issues.

to be perfectly honest, not at all surprised by the lack of "functionality" on a Geeetech product. They are one of the worst manufacturers out there, and i really wish people would quit buying their garbage so they would just go away.

Make sure you leave a review where ever you bought it from and be sure to let others know the wifi/cloud functionality is NOT there.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: giantarmd200

we brought this the other day  giantarmd200, now it as some more issues with it, 1] Extruder nozzle  coming out slow and thin. now 2] Error: BED-TEMP the heating element is out of order, the bed - plate is fine , i think its some thing to do with the nozzlehttp://soliforum.com/i/?VYVAlwU.jpghttp://soliforum.com/i/?vuBMYMB.jpg. the  Giantarm_D200_3D_Printer_User_Manual and sad to say the surpport as not been forth coming on geeetech own web sitehttp://soliforum.com/i/?cAru1yC.jpg the last photo i might have to buy a new one . any  help would be greatful for some thanks you very much we only got it make some  3D HEADBAND for our n.h.s to help them

6 (edited by Tin Falcon 2020-04-26 13:26:59)

Re: giantarmd200

Ok a lesson 3d printing 101 if both temp readings are not showing ambient do not try to heat things.
Looks like a break in the thermistor circuit is causing issues
Here is a tutorial of how the thermistor works.
. https://www.circuitbasics.com/arduino-t … -tutorial/

May be time to pull out the multimeter and do some troubleshooting exploring.

Would not heart to check the continuity of the bed heater. While you are at it



http://www.giantarm.com/document/Gianta … Manual.pdf

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: giantarmd200

i have now found the cause for the break in the thermistor its the wiring to big coated wax wiring and i now in closed 2 photos of what needs to be replaced, not very happy about it at all http://soliforum.com/i/?cVCAs5R.jpghttp://soliforum.com/i/?s9zyFRR.jpg, these 2 wires are to do with temp for the nozzel

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Re: giantarmd200

so you are telling me the plug is buggered.

Those connectors are usually fairly reliable so are pins missing or just bent

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: giantarmd200

inside there is 2 big fat wax  red wires here is 2 photos of the wires http://soliforum.com/i/?NQQRVMU.jpghttp://soliforum.com/i/?Yu43g9W.jpg  the way it was put togther means it was a very tight fit, i have read on this site page 8 second from the bottom  that the parts are not fit.

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Re: giantarmd200

the two heavy, "waxy" wires are for the heater cartridge.
black and red wire pairs are typically fans.
the 4 multi-color wires in the one plug at the back are for the extruder motor.
the pair of smaller red only wires in the white plug next to the waxy wires are most likely the thermistor wires.

Now, with all of that information in hand..
yes, the rubbing noted on the big waxy wires is of concern, but it is not the source of your temperature reading issue. those wires operate the heater only. As long as the rubbing has not compromised the inner plastic coating, they should be fine.

the thermistor is the problem here - meaning the two small red wires - one (or both) wires to the thermistor itself are broken or otherwise damaged somewhere along the line. This is where the problem lies. If the controller board can not get a proper reading of ambient temperature when turned on, it will not function - period. It will not take commands, it will not send power to the heaters, it will not function AT ALL until the temperature readings are restored to normal function. BOTH thermistors (hot end and heated bed, if available) must be in good operating order before the printer will function.

Now, why it is showing a temp error on the hotend (the -17 temp reading), but telling you the Bed is out of order is kind of weird.. but either way - the thermistor is definitely a problem. Fix the hotend thermistor and you may be able to restore function.

and for the record "not a good fit" and options that are supposed to be there, but are not (your wifi issue), are pretty typical of Geeetech. That is why most people with any real experience will not recommend any of their products.
To be perfectly honest, I am amazed they are even still in business.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: giantarmd200

thank you heartless just taken this photo extruder -con -chttp://soliforum.com/i/?viw1IWU.jpg and this was ment to be a brand new manchine, new parts coming in a day or so thank you

12 (edited by Tin Falcon 2020-04-27 23:54:46)

Re: giantarmd200

Tony it seems like you are relying on visual clues as you are posting photos . You really need a meter to properly troubleshoot. Also your pins are clearly bent and out of alignment. The pins should be in the same pattern as the bottom of the board.

Also why have you started a separate thread with the same issue . That confuses things even more.
I understand you are frustrated, however frustration can cause poor judgment and mistakes . Take a deep breath and try to relax.

Take it step by step. if you do not understand ask. we can likely get you through this.

From what i can see is you are guessing where the problem is .

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: giantarmd200

you were right it was the 2 red wires  had come off the bit which is the part nozzle pins, so the ebuy seller is ship out all the parts i need. thanks for all your help.

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Re: giantarmd200

does anyone know of any good sites for buying 3d printer parts, i have for the last few days on the internet looking for parts for this 
Printer GiantArm D200 .,even been on the makers site, still awaiting to hear back from them, even oem parts would do

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Re: giantarmd200

Tony are you sure you are not creating a mountain from a mole hill here.
the photo you show show a couple of bent pins and you reported loose connection  to the board.
Unless you have an open or short across the thermistor you should be able to make some adjustments reassemble things and make it work.

Like i said before check things with a meter.

What parts do you NEED have you even determined that ?

or are you just trying to throw parts at this thing to make it work.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: giantarmd200

the frist photo   http://soliforum.com/i/?XO6R8dQ.jpg    2nd photo shows all what would be inside the frist. if you took the cover off. considering that the gaintarm d2oo has been out since 2017 and no parts  show up on line

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Re: giantarmd200

I say AGAIN why do you think you need parts??? do you own a multimeter ?? do you know how to use it??

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: giantarmd200

I agree with everyone on here. Get yourself a multimeter so you can do continuity tests. This will save you a LOT of time and effort in the long run, and the skills you learn from it will easily translate to troubleshooting things like automobile wiring. It's a good ability to have.

Also going to second Heartless's opinion on geeetech. I have gotten boards and things from them in the past and I had about a 50% success rate on the things actually working.

SD3 w/ RUMBA (8825s), merlin hot end (in pieces). Ender3 w/ silent board for PLA printing. Ender5 w/ silent board, e3d v6, new z lead screw, and glass bed. DiY Kossel w/ smoothieboard (in pieces). Vellman Vertex (in pieces)
Shapeoko2 router in process of being converted to laser engraver (in pieces)
Multicam 5000 series CNC Router w/ 11HP spindle, 5x10' table, and auto tool changer (in pieces)

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Re: giantarmd200

done all that tested it found it to be dead the meter was one of the frist thing i did, and the only thing i will say to you all is that dont belive every thing on you-tube reviews we went on the reviews and i can olny say that they were not that honest. thanks to you all any way . we went and got  a anycubic mega s, so the geeetech gaintarm d200 is going back to ebay