New & Cheap 3D Printer?

Seems to me you're the creator of the device, and just here for spamming purposes.

The two posters have the exact same IP, so it looks like the standard crowdfunder sock puppet.

Very true,  I love checking out new stuff.  But the second I see spam I instantly look away and will never even consider buying from them.  Their loss though I like to spend money on this hobby

And more importantly it's name is fun to say!
CobbleBotCobbleBot!

I need coffee.....

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons

I almost dropped the money on it this week. Compared to other crowd-funded printers, this is a very low risk investment. Like I said, the components being used are standard RAMPS and LCD, good sized steppers, extruded aluminum, and an all-metal hotend (wish he would keep the hex one instead of redesigning one). Even if the final printer delivered ends up being a let-down, the parts alone recapture most of your investment. Thats why I consider it low risk. Since he is shooting for enough volume to make molded parts, there is a decent chance the final product will be at least the same quality as most other crowd-funded printers (read: it will work, but there may be some design flaws that users will find solutions to on their own just like, oh say, Solidoodle, Printrbot, Robo3D, Qu-BD).

Now, realistically this build volume has a major downside not being currently addressed: Heated bed. He promises it at $1M goal. But the big problem is logistics. The only off-the-shelf currently available is silicone heaters. Once you get beyond 8x8" sizes, the cost is usually pretty high. But beyond that, is powering them. The wattage/amperage of a 16x16 silicone heater is so high, you would burn out the traces on the RAMPS. So if your going to control it, you should use a SSR to power the heater. This is all regurgitated info from previous discussions.

Still, for $300 that build volume for PLA is very tempting. And it would be easy to hack it so that you could make a removable 8x8 PCB heater + glass for ABS (just place it above the standard bed and change homing offset).

I would get this, but I dont want to wait. I have decided that forking over $400 after the crowd-funding is over for quick delivery is better for me.

Cobblebot is basically guaranteed to fail at that price. I wish you could pledge against Kickstarters. If the KS can't deliver on time, you get twice your money back. If they do, they get to keep your pledge and you get nothing. Call it the "haters gonna hate" reward tier. That'd be fun.

A separate power source would not be needed, "30A" (i put it in quotes because the power supply is almost certainly an overrated Chinese knockoff waiting to burn your house down) is plenty for printer and bed.

I agree. But the electronics at volume are less than $75. Getting the parts molded reduces plastic costs greatly (basing off labor, not material). The only expensive thing is the extruded aluminum, which can be alot cheaper in bulk. But I agree that when the dust settles, the KS delivered printers will end up a wash after the effort to deliver. And that is why I think its a low risk. There have been very few KS campaigns that never delivered. This could be the first massive one. But the way I look at it is, most likely what will happen is this guy will buy the parts and quickly assemble. If the reliability of this mass assembly does not come out right, you end up with 75% of your money in decent parts you can use to make a different printer.

But arguing if this KS campaign will end up with people getting ripped off is a different discussion which belongs to any crowd-funded campaign.

Yes. Those prices are what you can buy them at per piece. In volume of 2000 pieces, you can knock that down easily by 30% or more.

QU-BD did the One-up for $200 with pretty much the same equipment and their structure was loaded due to having in-house laser equipment (US labor costs, not overseas) and they delivered.

Although I am concerned about their decision to design an all-metal in-house instead of using the hexagon hotend. The purchased hotend was one of the attractions.

Guys why would you need a 30A power supply? It's less safe, but an AC power bed is the way to go with bigger build platforms. There are still many problems, but I don't think the major one is PSU. Ground the bed, and use GFCI outlets, and the danger is not so big.

I also however agree that this is hopeless for KS and generally Elmoret's criticisms are accurate.

Yup, my mistake. I'll go back and edit. For some reason I thought that was a 4ft section, maybe I looked at the shipping weight.

Either way, I've never seen $2/ft.

Also, that cantilever thing is not an ideal mechanical design. Makerslide aside, it's going to flap around all over the place when it gets moving out front: why not just have the front part of the frame at the front of the printer and support it properly? To save 500mm extrusion maybe? Sigh.

Given I see little value in the design (maybe you disagree, that's OK) - assuming everything goes as well as it can for the project, from my perspective the proposition looks like $300 to receive $250 worth of parts (that I could get anywhere else) in 18 months time. I'm not sure I'm on board...

way to resurrect a dead post to promote your own company