Extruder temp falls back to room temp at start

Sounds like a short or damaged wire. If it reads fine when not in motion, I would recommend tracing the lines back to the board.

I have slicer set at 210 and printer limit at 210.

Thanks for the advice! Will try and update.

Ok so I have some more details that may help a more experienced printer figure out what is wrong. I can print if my temp is set below 210. Any higher and it will begin to drop as soon as it reaches the desired temp. I set the printer settings for the extruder temp to 240 and the print settings to 200 because that is all it will allow for some reason as previously tested. I reflashed the firmware to see if something was wrong, but same result. Please help! I need to print ABS soon because my acrylic extruder won't take much more maintenance! Thanks for your time.

[EDIT] Oh, and it's been stopping mid print without any indication that it's blocked mechanically. The code still runs as if the printer doesn't know that it stopped... don't know if the two are related...

Well, dang, I guess it is topping out. I've never had the max temp error before and I've run with it indicating higher temps... Should I go into the code and increase the max temp? I'm having trouble even printing with PLA... Also THANK YOU for helping me man. I'm still learning a lot and really appreciate it!

Based on the log your MAXTEMP is being triggered due to overshoot. You should never set your temp for more than 10 less of your printers max temp. During initial heating it will overshoot the desired temp by several degrees. If this makes the temp pass your firmwares MAX TEMP you will get what you are seeinh. It is a safety feature to try and catch thermal runaway. This assumes the logic is working during said runaway and not frozen.

If you are having to go beyond 235 to print PLA then you have an issue with the temp not being reported correctly and it is lower than being reported. You need to confirm with a contact thermometer that can read high temps what your actual hotend temp is. The you can just do a mental offset in your head to compensate. As long as the actual temp is not 235 then you could raise the MAX TEMP in your code. BUT and I stress BUT you should find out why the temp is not reported correctly. Do you have the correct device selected in the firmware. IS the PID calibrated?

Max temp error is strictly firmware driven.  You are gonna have to ensure that the flash actually took.

you will melt the Peek at those temps. I always print ABS with My SD2 and can never set temp above 200c as it often overshoots to 210 and 215 is limit due to ruining PEEK if higher besides other issues. ABS prints fine at 195 in my SD2 unless printing large solid infil using layers thicker than .2 then the cooldown during recovery which drops to like 188 makes it too stiff to feed that fast, thats why I raised to 200 to keep min above 193 where it begins getting stiff. this was main issue I had printing the large parts for my Atlas scanner besides slic3r bug on my old version of Slic3r creating bad gcode on a few parts for some reason.

these are some reasons for the upgrades most do on Solidoodle printers.

your above posts say its hitting limit. that limit is what protects things like the Peek, thermisters etc that have operating temp limits on stock SD printers

get a good IR thermometer or better yet an sensitive electronic one with tiny K-type thermocouple like Refrigeration techs use for super heat but make sure it handles temps that high. see if it reads same temps at same spots. that expencive Thermometer can be bought for about $100 at HVAC supply stores. and worth it for future uses. they are as fast as the thermisters and can be calibrated using instructions that come with it. I use Ice and that gives low end base point, high base can be boiling water if not in high altitude. good investment for saving costly parts replacements etc.