1 Topic by getwrecked8057

  • getwrecked8057
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Topic: SLA and Z Wobble

I recently received a Nobel 1.0 SLA printer as a gift. I've printed numerous small objects on the printer at layer heights of 0.1mm, 0.05mm and 0.025mm but all of them have extremely visible layers, and those layers have look to have a z wobble pattern to me.

http://soliforum.com/i/?o3mL800.jpg

http://soliforum.com/i/?kjM80Jc.jpg

I'm not sure what to do about it. I've checked and rechecked the stability of build plate. Done a horizontal calibration multiple times. Yet the problem persists. I'm too the point that I'd like to send it in to XYZPrinting for service, but I have to pay for shipping...and it's a little expensive.

Any thoughts on steps I might be able to take to correct this?

2 Reply by knowack

  • knowack
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Re: SLA and Z Wobble

To me, that doesn't look like Z wobble...although hard to be certain without seeing all sides of the print.  It seems more like the print is sticking to the film.

Can you print a small cube and show us the sides?

-Kevin

3 Reply by carl_m1968

  • carl_m1968
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Re: SLA and Z Wobble

If it was z wobble the lines would be a very regular pattern in sync with the wobble. Your lines are random and irregular. This looks like it could be over exposure or badly mixed resin. Has the machine ever given you a good print?

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

4 Reply by getwrecked8057

  • getwrecked8057
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Re: SLA and Z Wobble

I'll print a cube tonight.

The machine has printed some "ok" prints when I print flat objects right against the build plate. Even in those cases the sides of the object are full of print lines. To date I've tried:

Printing objects directly attached to the build plate.
Printing objects perpendicular to the build plate (90 degrees, pointing straight down).
Printing objects tilted on a 45 degree angle.
Printing solid and hollow objects (that building is hollow with no bottom...it's essentially an inverted bowl).
Printing objects with different levels of laser intensity (since that is the only setting I can adjust on the Nobel 1.0).

I would say no "good" prints. Even their test objects came out terrible. Certainly nothing like the prints I have seen reviewers display on various websites and videos.

5 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: SLA and Z Wobble

I would say you could have dirty mirrors or your galvos need to be aligned. I had a Form 1 have weird edges on lines and it turned out my galvos needed to be aligned. A $500 dollar service for a machine no longer under warranty. Sol it as is on ebay for about 3/4 of what I paid for it. Laser based systems are precise when they work but when they need work it can be expensive.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

6 Reply by getwrecked8057

  • getwrecked8057
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Re: SLA and Z Wobble

@knowack

Test cube. Probably the first thing I should have printed. Frustratingly ironically the best quality prime l print I've been able to prouce. There are some issues on the bottom where the print looks to have had some adhesion issues. No to figure out how to get this quality in anything else I might want to print.
http://soliforum.com/i/?HeVptJh.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?4WSJDSh.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?wbm0MAJ.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?WJBn0AO.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?KnM63kf.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?yswwbwF.jpg

7 Reply by knowack (edited by knowack 2019-04-22 04:21:31)

  • knowack
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Re: SLA and Z Wobble

Ok.  I really don't think you have Z wobble.  For example, if you did, the indentation above and to the left of the X in the first photo would have a corresponding protrusion on the right corner of the second photo.  I don't see that.

Your printer uses a UV laser, while mine uses a UV light source shining through an LCD screen...so I may not be the best qualified person here to help you.  Besides the cleaning and alignment that Carl suggested to check, I can only offer a few general ideas:

1. How old is the resin you're using?  I don't know how long it's been on the shelf, or the bottle's been open...just ensure you're confident the resin is good.
2. What are your exposure times?  Even the bottom surface in your 4th photo has poorly-defined edges.  That effect can then be manifested upward to subsequent layers.  See if you can lengthen your exposure, and notice a visible result.  With my printer's slicer settings, the bottom 8 layers have 4x as long exposure time as the remaining layers.
3. Ensure your film is sufficiently taut.  If the film has been stretched due to stuck prints etc., it may need to be tightened.

Again, someone who is familiar with the laser-equipped SLA printers may be able to look at those photos and immediately tell what the problem is.

-Kevin