Topic: best resin printer in the <= 500 USD price range?
I've only heard about Anycubic Photon and XYZprinting Nobel.
SparkMaker FHD is also interesting but smaller build volume doesn't seem worth the cost saving for me personally.
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → SLA Printers → best resin printer in the <= 500 USD price range?
I've only heard about Anycubic Photon and XYZprinting Nobel.
SparkMaker FHD is also interesting but smaller build volume doesn't seem worth the cost saving for me personally.
I've only heard about Anycubic Photon and XYZprinting Nobel.
SparkMaker FHD is also interesting but smaller build volume doesn't seem worth the cost saving for me personally.
Might want to check out the Wahao Duplicator 7. Mine has been working well for over two years.
Just make sure you read up on them all and realize that in addition to the resin the LCD and FEP film are consumables. The film is cheap. The LCD for the Wanha is about 50 bucks on Ebay. Make sure which ever one you choose there is source for those parts.
Depending on your usage the UV light damages the LCD over time. That is it needs to be replaced. Mine is gets used a few times a week and my original LCD is still good.
Also keep in mind there are issues with the Z axis accuracy on most of these machine so parts that need to fit something may be an issue. Also on these DUV machines like the ones listed the resin cures to be brittle. You will not get the same strength you get from FDM machines and their filaments.
Only Formlabs has an actual durable resin for their Form2 that is actually functional. But we are talking about a 25 hundred dollar machine and 2 hundred dollar resin then.
Thank you for the tips.
The LCD for the Wanha is about 50 bucks on Ebay. Make sure which ever one you choose there is source for those parts.
I did not know the LCD gets degraded over time. There are few manufacturers of tablet and notebook size LCDs and Aliexpress and similar sites have such LCD panels in case the machine I choose doesn't offer replacements. But the connectors and inputs are not universal between them I think.
Also keep in mind there are issues with the Z axis accuracy on most of these machine so parts that need to fit something may be an issue.
Have people attempted to upgrade the rods and bearings to improve that?
Only Formlabs has an actual durable resin for their Form2 that is actually functional. But we are talking about a 25 hundred dollar machine and 2 hundred dollar resin then.
Do you know if Formlabs resin can be used on non-Formlabs machines? I think it boils down to setting the exposure time to be the same and use same wavelength curing resin (405 vs 445nm?).
Are we talking about PLA-like brittleness or worse?
Thanks.
Thank you for the tips.
carl_m1968 wrote:The LCD for the Wanha is about 50 bucks on Ebay. Make sure which ever one you choose there is source for those parts.
I did not know the LCD gets degraded over time. There are few manufacturers of tablet and notebook size LCDs and Aliexpress and similar sites have such LCD panels in case the machine I choose doesn't offer replacements. But the connectors and inputs are not universal between them I think.
Also keep in mind there are issues with the Z axis accuracy on most of these machine so parts that need to fit something may be an issue.
Have people attempted to upgrade the rods and bearings to improve that?
Only Formlabs has an actual durable resin for their Form2 that is actually functional. But we are talking about a 25 hundred dollar machine and 2 hundred dollar resin then.
Do you know if Formlabs resin can be used on non-Formlabs machines? I think it boils down to setting the exposure time to be the same and use same wavelength curing resin (405 vs 445nm?).
Are we talking about PLA-like brittleness or worse?
Thanks.
We are talking brittle as in you drop the part on a hard floor pieces will break off or it will chip. It's almost like glass. The Formlabs stuff is formulated for their laser. It does not cure in a Direct UV machine. As for the accuracy it is not a stability issue but a settings issue and getting the correct pulses set up on your motor. You also have to get the exact x and y resolution set up on the LCD for the parts to come out cad to print correct on those dimensions as well. So make sure the machine you choose has a strong group following it to help you with that. The stock settings on most of these are not correct.
Thanks.
What resin would you recommend which would offer the most transparency, after polish? (I'd pay 200USD max for a 1kg (2 pounds) for that). https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/3dhu … +clear.jpg
source: https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/s … s-compared
And what resin would you recommend for a glossy or semi glossy black?
Thanks.
What resin would you recommend which would offer the most transparency, after polish? (I'd pay 200USD max for a 1kg (2 pounds) for that). https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/3dhu … +clear.jpg
source: https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/s … s-comparedAnd what resin would you recommend for a glossy or semi glossy black?
Just an FYI, no matter how clear it is now it will yellow over time. But if it is designed to be clear then it would be your best bet. Most of the stuff they call clear in the lower price range is actually yellowish to amber but still clear.
For semi gloss black is always good. They should all be glossy. Alot depends on the printer you choose and if the brands not for that printer still work. As I said you have to make sure it can be cured by UV LED. The wavelength of the LED's versus a Laser is not the same.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → SLA Printers → best resin printer in the <= 500 USD price range?
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