1 (edited by mloebl 2018-11-12 00:20:03)

Topic: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

I got my SD3 almost 5 years ago to this week.  Printed "ok" when I got it, but after a year of rough prints, the original carriages started to warp, and the extruder acrylic started to crack.  I updated it the first time 3 years ago:

  • Lawsy carriages

  • E3D hotend

  • GT2 belts and gears

  • Chromed rods

  • Bulldog XL extruder w/wardjr's carriage

  • Rumba controller

  • MIC6 bed with 200w heater

  • Bed leveling with a IR sensor

  • Active cooling on the x motor

  • Z axis anti-backlash nut

Still prints weren't that good, eventually built myself a new printer; a D-Bot CoreXY and overall pretty happy with it.  Kinda bothered me about the old Solidoodle sitting there, couldn't really sell it as quality was still not great.  Decided to retrofit it again with what I've learned from building the D-Bot.  Still have a lot to learn... but like to get my hands dirty.

Decided to take another stab at rebuilding it so I had a spare printer that worked well enough in case my primary printer went down.

  • Bondtech BMG extruder via bowden

  • Lawy's MK5 carriage

  • BLTouch bed leveling sensor with the NonDisjunction mount

  • uzzors2k fan

  • Brand LED lighting all around


https://i.imgur.com/PcoVumK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tFdqSkl.jpg

Not perfect, but overall MUCH better than it used to it.  Overall the Z layering has looked great, and no major z back lash artifacts.  Really my one complaint is put more money into it than I should have sad  I noticed the last time I updated it, I made a few mistakes for sure, and it didn't help the quality at all.  Definitely been a learning experience if anything else.


This is printed at 40% size, so a bit of artifacts due to smaller size, and some cooling issues, but overall looks pretty good:
https://i.imgur.com/UysAPTJ.jpg

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller

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Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

Nice print!

Looks like you fixed that printer up nicely.

3

Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

whats the bed surface used? looks like just the aluminum plate

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

4

Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

also were did you find the compact part cooling fan duct?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

5

Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

should add 2nd extruder and make it an Apprentice. Id love such a unit

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

6 (edited by mloebl 2018-11-12 12:54:34)

Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

It's a 1/4" MIC6 bed I believe I got from McMaster or similiar, and I countersunk the screws to be level-ish with the bed surface.  The thicker the MIC6, the flatter (and more uniform) it is usually, hence 1/4" and not 1/8".

Aluminum Sheets (search for MIC6): https://www.mcmaster.com/aluminum-alloy-sheets
Fan duct:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2804941

Also, when I redid the build plate a couple of years ago, some things weren't readily available.  If I was to do it again, I would use this:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aspen-Aerogels … rk:12:pf:0

I used the 5mm Aerogel insulation on my 12x12" plate in my other printer, also 1/4", and it not only heats fast, but holds the heat very very (very) well. I can crank it to 70C, and still touch the bottom with my hands without a problem. I used a bit of RTV sealant and holds it perfectly in place.   If I have to redo this plate as the heater is a bit undersized (I have a newer one), I'd likely use this as the 8x8" plate cools off pretty quick.

Speaking of the heater, I finally bought a brand name SSR from Digikey.  The cheap ones on Amazon often are poor copies, and don't work.  The aluminum box for the SD makes a nice natural heat sink.  I went thru 3 of them from Amazon (thru different sellers), before I realized that was the issue mad

I also realized too late I should have posted this to the mods forum, but too late now.  It is tempting to try to add a 2nd extruder now, though may have to do a bit of DIY since not sure the parts exist, yet smile

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller

7

Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

the best bed heater for an 8x8 bed is this: https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … -8-heatbed

I have 3 printers running it and love it. just ordered another one for my 3rd SD4

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

heartless wrote:

the best bed heater for an 8x8 bed is this: https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … -8-heatbed

I have 3 printers running it and love it. just ordered another one for my 3rd SD4

Thanks for the heads up!  I had originally bought one of the silicone ones specially made for the SD that someone here used to get,  it works great and heats fast, BUT they undersized the wiring, so they get pretty warm while heating.  They released a 2nd version with upgraded wiring I've had in my cabinet for awhile as a backup, but good to know about this one smile

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller

9

Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

this one was designed with the SD printers in mind, but also intended to be usable by other printers with the same bed size, by guys that are SD owners..
the four guys that own PrintIt Industries are all members here, and started the company as a support source for the rest of us. They have great products and fantastic customer support.

I bought one of these heatbeds when they first came out and liked it so much that I bought another.. I also have one of their printers that uses the same heatbed..

Fast, EVEN heating across the entire bed that is very stable. it cut my bed heating time by more than half - and considering I have a 3/16" thick aluminum plate plus mirror tile on top of that, that is saying a lot. It is so good that I was able to drop the bed temp from 100C to 90C and still get excellent adhesion when running ABS.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

10

Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

heartless wrote:

this one was designed with the SD printers in mind, but also intended to be usable by other printers with the same bed size, by guys that are SD owners..
the four guys that own PrintIt Industries are all members here, and started the company as a support source for the rest of us. They have great products and fantastic customer support.

I bought one of these heatbeds when they first came out and liked it so much that I bought another.. I also have one of their printers that uses the same heatbed..

Fast, EVEN heating across the entire bed that is very stable. it cut my bed heating time by more than half - and considering I have a 3/16" thick aluminum plate plus mirror tile on top of that, that is saying a lot. It is so good that I was able to drop the bed temp from 100C to 90C and still get excellent adhesion when running ABS.


That's awesome! I hadn't heard of them before, definitely appreciate this!

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller

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Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

Great job on the SD3!

12 (edited by yizhou.he 2018-11-12 16:41:51)

Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

The print looks great. z-band maybe exaggerated by the glossy finish of the filament, I'm sure the real print looks better than the picture.

Two small concerns:
1. layer cooling fan can use a different design, the current design is too far away from nozzle and may cool nozzle more than cool the print. I can be wrong about this since look at picture is not as accurate as look at real object in 3D.

2. Hotend cable management. the heating element wire and themistor wire is not fixed tight. My feeling is they will be slightly bend over and over when the hotend moves back and forth (will make heating element wire and themistor wire break quicker on heat block end). I would recommend add 2nd zip tie in the middle of the heating element wire and themistor wire (between your current zip tie and heating block) attach to the carriage .

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1

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Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

heartless wrote:

the best bed heater for an 8x8 bed is this: https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … -8-heatbed

I have 3 printers running it and love it. just ordered another one for my 3rd SD4

did they ever make one of these for the SD2 6x6 bed? need one bad for mine as their lil hot resister is horrible about very uneven temps causing print issues either poor adhesion or burnt curled edges in spots, worse on long prints.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

14

Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

n2ri wrote:
heartless wrote:

the best bed heater for an 8x8 bed is this: https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … -8-heatbed

I have 3 printers running it and love it. just ordered another one for my 3rd SD4

did they ever make one of these for the SD2 6x6 bed? need one bad for mine as their lil hot resister is horrible about very uneven temps causing print issues either poor adhesion or burnt curled edges in spots, worse on long prints.

last I heard they were "working in it" for other sizes. I would love one for the FT-5. might want to reach out to them and see what they have to say about it.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

15 (edited by mloebl 2018-11-13 20:01:24)

Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

yizhou.he wrote:

The print looks great. z-band maybe exaggerated by the glossy finish of the filament, I'm sure the real print looks better than the picture.

Two small concerns:
1. layer cooling fan can use a different design, the current design is too far away from nozzle and may cool nozzle more than cool the print. I can be wrong about this since look at picture is not as accurate as look at real object in 3D.

2. Hotend cable management. the heating element wire and themistor wire is not fixed tight. My feeling is they will be slightly bend over and over when the hotend moves back and forth (will make heating element wire and themistor wire break quicker on heat block end). I would recommend add 2nd zip tie in the middle of the heating element wire and themistor wire (between your current zip tie and heating block) attach to the carriage .

I can't find the black box I was using for calibration sad  But the difference in z banding was noticeable.  I tried forever with my original SD to get decent layering and was such a pain.

1.  Yeah it's not the best cooling fan, but best I've found so far.  Lawsy's didn't fit as it looked as his was designed for use with the SD stock hot end sad

2.  Makes sense and good point, thanks!

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller

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Re: Just finished rebuilding my SD3 for the 2nd time

I took a pic with the fan blowing at 100% into a long print.  The cooling fan shroud works ok, but is highly dependent on the topology of what is being printed.  Here's a relatively flat print, fan really isn't causing a problem from the hot end from what I can tell. 
https://i.imgur.com/qLimN9O.png

I have seen it fluctuate by a couple degrees on a really oddly shaped print where it could reflect a bit off the print.

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller