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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Print Space & Cooling
What are the pitfalls of printers with larger print area? Like say we get up to 16" cubed? Issues with belt tensions or can that be remedied? What are the issues?
And it is best that a previous layer be cooled before the next goes down so the extended print time in this case could only help quality?
It takes long time to print, which make you want to sacrfice quality to buy time. If you only have one large build volume printer, buy a smaller one to ensure the print quality of the large one.
if it don't come with filament sensor, you will hate yourself did not change filament at right moment. if you have to choose between cr-10 and cr-10S, buy cr-10S.
adjust z-axis endstop so that you don't have to screw your bed spring to extreme to get best nozzle height. I heard large bed get wrapped easily but unable to confirm it ( and I don't want to)
larger print areas require more rigidity. it is not a belt issue, it is a structural issue.
You can't just increase size without changing the structural components.
smooth rods, like the Solidoodles use, are out of the question when going that big. they just do not have the rigidity to span that large of a distance.
I have a FolgerTech FT-5 - it is a 12x12x approx 15h build volume - and it uses 2020 aluminum for the X & Y spans, with linear rails for the carriages to ride on. Any more than that, I think 2040 (or larger) would be more appropriate, to prevent potential sagging.
As for the cooling of the layers - that kind of depends on what material you are printing with. ABS, you do not want too much cooling time or layer adhesion suffers. PLA and PETG are a bit more forgiving in that respect.
IMHO a printer that large needs 3030 or even 4040 structure with linear rails .
I saw a large format custom printer in the works at errf iirc the frame was like 80mm square
...As for the cooling of the layers - that kind of depends on what material you are printing with. ABS, you do not want too much cooling time or layer adhesion suffers. PLA and PETG are a bit more forgiving in that respect.
I asked about cooling in here before and was told each layer should be relatively cool before the next is put down, hence why printer speed isn't important. I wanted to upgrade to a machine that can work faster so I can do more complex objects with many parts that converge and separate as I go up. Solidoodle can't seem to work fast enough to keep it hot until each layer is done, plus going into the next.
With pla printing multiple parts on area with small cross section can also help ,a bigger bed you can fit more parts on may be helpful as each layer has more time to cool do you need a bigger to do this ??? hm i guess it depends on what you are printing. if this is your goal a print fan may be the answer.
Rocketman, I suspect you may be expecting your printer to print things that it actually cannot. There are limitations and you as many of us will find we may have had these grand cool ideas to print only to find out that they are actually not printable. One issue you will have with very complex and/or intricate parts is post processing. There will be little strings and blips here and there you will need to clean up. If you have very complex part with hard to reach areas those little strings and blips may be hard to get to or even impossible to get to and thus marring your perfect print.
Depending on the print you might get lucky and need no post processing but most prints require some sort of clean up or processing after printing in my experience.
Most of the stuff you keep addressing, in fact all of it comes down to proper machine calibration and setup as well as knowing what is needed on a per print bases and that only comes with experience. It seems to me that you are looking for a golden machine that you just press print and you get your perfect print from it every time.
We have all told you that most of the perfection comes from learning the machine and getting it tuned and setup correctly. I notice that you fail to respond to any post that tell you that you need to do the work and learn the hobby. So it looks to me like you are not interested in hearing the truth. So sadly you are not going to enjoy this hobby if you are expecting to get a machine that comes ready to go out of the box. They don't exist regardless of cost. I as well as many others here simply got a good machine then made settings or changed hardware to get it to do what we wanted. We made the machine do what we wanted. We learned the machine inside and out and saw what it needed to meet our expectations and learned what changes rather it was hardware, settings, or tweaks to firmware and such to make. This area is where you seem to not want to step foot based on your threads and post. The truth is your not going to be able to avoid this area and if you think you can I can assure you that you should get out of the hobby now before spending more money only to be dissapointed with subpar results.
A golden rule of 3D Printing is the results are in the work. This is a hobby that awards you based on the work you put into it.
heartless wrote:...As for the cooling of the layers - that kind of depends on what material you are printing with. ABS, you do not want too much cooling time or layer adhesion suffers. PLA and PETG are a bit more forgiving in that respect.
I asked about cooling in here before and was told each layer should be relatively cool before the next is put down, hence why printer speed isn't important. I wanted to upgrade to a machine that can work faster so I can do more complex objects with many parts that converge and separate as I go up. Solidoodle can't seem to work fast enough to keep it hot until each layer is done, plus going into the next.
'relatively cool' is not the same as completely cool... again, a lot depends on the material being used, and the size of the item being printed.
small items, yes, need more time between layers or you end up with an ugly mess. larger items do not necessarily need more time..
And I am in complete agreement with carl_m1968 here in that you seemingly want something that does not exist.
regardless of what printer you buy, YOU will HAVE to put in the time and effort to calibrate it, make adjustments, tune your settings, etc.
there is no way around this.
3D printers are NOT in the same class as paper printers where you just plug it in, load the ink cartridges & paper and hit print. There are far too many other variables involved.
I have shared many pictures of the prints my printers are capable of, but the ONLY reason they are as good as they are is because I spent many hours learning, tweaking, calibrating and adjusting things to make the printer produce what it does. I can guarantee you they did not produce nice things when I first started..
How would you suggest I print a building with many columns that the nozzle needs to jump back and forth over and normally leave excess material each time it jumps?
How would you suggest I print a building with many columns that the nozzle needs to jump back and forth over and normally leave excess material each time it jumps?
proper calibration and just the right amount of support
How would you suggest I print a building with many columns that the nozzle needs to jump back and forth over and normally leave excess material each time it jumps?
If your machine is setup properly it will not leave excess material. The reason that happens is over extrusion, wrong temp, wrong speed, and wrong retraction settings. Again your concerns go back to setup and knowledge of operation.
Dude these guys have told you exactly what YOU must do to get the results you expect. We all know these things because We spent countless hours, weeks even learning why our printers messed up in one area or another and most times had to figure out what/how to adjust settings to correct it. some times others on here may have already dealt with a problem and IF YOU listen and follow their advice (not ignore them and ask same questions again in different way/thread and they stop responding) then you too can become master of your own 3D printer. wish hard as you might. that magical wonder 3D printer with artificial intelligence and mind reader ability that spits out your Dreamed desire in 60 secs with a "as you requested master" voice announcement, like a Star trek replicator is NOT now nor in our lifetime going to exist at any price even Donald Trump or Bill Gates could afford.
like Carl said your spider webs between towers is due to retraction settings etc needing tweaked which takes many hours of trial and error to get right for each print with each material type which is why I said in past threads you need to build a folder of settings templates coded so you remember which one was for what prints. also search Thingiverse for Test, Calibration, etc files for specific adjustments as they will help you not waste too much time/material tweaking these settings.
How would you suggest I print a building with many columns that the nozzle needs to jump back and forth over and normally leave excess material each time it jumps?
If you have facebook account, join facebook groups, you can search all kinds of 3D printer brand and join one or many of them. They are more newbie friendly. This forum is more of a battle field than technique support. Join the battle after you graduate from facebook group. Good luck!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/
How would you suggest I print a building with many columns that the nozzle needs to jump back and forth over and normally leave excess material each time it jumps?
dry filament and proper retraction settings
Rocketman wrote:How would you suggest I print a building with many columns that the nozzle needs to jump back and forth over and normally leave excess material each time it jumps?
If you have facebook account, join facebook groups, you can search all kinds of 3D printer brand and join one or many of them. They are more newbie friendly. This forum is more of a battle field than technique support. Join the battle after you graduate from facebook group. Good luck!
Honestly, this is the LAST thing I would suggest, as most FB groups are overloaded with false/incorrect information, and people asking the same questions over & over again because they cant be bothered to use the search function.
This forum - and this forum alone - has taught me more than I ever hoped to learn when I first started.
95% of all print issues boil down to one thing.. proper calibration. Taking the time to do things right, from the beginning, step by step.
the other 5% of print issues are a combination of bad models, poor materials (poor quality, too much moisture, etc), and/or really crappy equipment.
most Facebook group are newbie friendly group, ofcause there are many newbie hangout their, they show off their print, progress, new ideas, and they ask silly question and try to answer others questions. I agree many information is not necessary all correct, because there are many newbie can not wait to show off what they have learned. there are debates and discussions, definitly some of them is wrong, but if you wait long enough, someone have real experience and paient enough to newbies show up and explain why you are right and why you are wrong, and all the newbie participate the discussion can learn. And they learn better this way than google search every term that they have no idea what they mean.
Many of those so called newbie friendly groups will also make newbie want to leave if said newbie makes a wrong comments or comments negatively about a long term member. So really no different than here sometimes. The D7 FB group is horrible towards newbies.
There are multiple D7 group in facebook, pick the one with more members. facebook group creator can kick out members that don't behave or respect others, group with fair administrator usually attract more newbie members.
On the other hand, anyone can create facebook groups, so join the group selectively. The group I joined are mostly filled with friendly members that are polite and respect each other and help each other. Comments negatively in mean language about anyone is not welcomed in most group I joined.
facebook, yahoo groups etc are not a good place to learn facts. mostly good places to get booted from with 1 wrong comment or off topic post and lots of fowl language, posts etc not family safe.
I have been in hundreds of groups and still am in a couple dozen but only ones with moderators, no member info listed for others to pilfer and spam, members that are truly into group topic.
I have been in over 350 Yahoo groups including some I was admin or creator of and now I am in maybe 40 but only a handful daily. FB about the same.
but groups like this one Web based even email type I am in maybe 12 that I been with more years than I can remember and know many members & have delt with them personally many times.
I have been in about 6-10 3D printing groups the last 6 years but here & a few sites I get 3D printing info & products from are the only ones I still watch regularly plus other hobby or real life groups not related to 3D printing and even though no longer able to work I dont have time for doing admin duties on any now.
so I have learned the only time its OK to recommend other members to another similar site is as an additional place to search current info on more sites of same interests.
also dont think for a minute that most groups/forums will ban/boot members that attack you. in fact quite opposite. I have been booted from a few just because I asked others to not use Gods name in vein as profanity as its offensive to me and others on a site women & children are on. but admin kept the offending members and booted me I guess because I didnt use 'God' as a cuss word. go figure.
I dont have any desire to be a member in such sites anyway no matter what is on the site. many group owners on those public "social media" sites only want their views posted all others get booted. look at membership numbers and how long group has been "active" to get an idea if its worth joining also check how secure it is with member info and catching spam bots before allowing new members to join & post. I had groups on a site called "Snap" decades ago & it was better than Yahoo & Google combined then MSN/Hotmail bought them & shut them down all in 1 night with no advance notice. so yeah dont get me started on such groups, forums, clubs, blogs... I have this Forum in my top 5 all time fav list if that tells you anything. and I been online with my same user name since 1994 doing this. also have 2 grown sons both in high paying IT careers that got me into it when they were in grade school then.
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