Topic: Dialing in the printer
well
I got the X & Y axis within .004mm but the hight is off. how do I dial that in.
Thanks
Dale
You are not logged in. Please login or register.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → 3D Printer Discussion → Dialing in the printer
well
I got the X & Y axis within .004mm but the hight is off. how do I dial that in.
Thanks
Dale
well
I got the X & Y axis within .004mm but the hight is off. how do I dial that in.
Thanks
Dale
The same way. just set the steps per mm in the firmware to where you need it. Somewhere there is a formula for this.
Also be warned different materials have different shrink rates so your .004 will vary when you change material some.
Carl
I did not change the step in the firmware I just aligned the gantry and got lucky
I have a makerbot so that being said are the steps set in ReplicatorG
Thanks
Dale
Carl
I did not change the step in the firmware I just aligned the gantry and got lucky
I have a makerbot so that being said are the steps set in ReplicatorGThanks
Dale
Sorry. I forget you have "THAT" printer and "THAT" software.
Carl
I have upgraded the firmware and am using Simplify3D.
I will look and see if I can change it in replicarorG.
upgrading the firmware and using simplify3D + printing on glass is the best move I have made in 3d printing.
Thanks
Dale
Is this the open source firmware for replicator 2X or it is just something else happen to be the same name? I don't have makerbot printer, can not test.
https://github.com/makerbot/MightyBoardFirmware
Is this the open source firmware for replicator 2X or it is just something else happen to be the same name? I don't have makerbot printer, can not test.
He is using Sailfish which is a bit more open source than the stock. My machine was a clone of his when i got it and I moved to sailfish as fast as I could. But even then settings are limited so I opted for the Azteeg X3 and Viki II controller I use now. Worlds of difference and can use Repetier or Marlin. Looking to move to the Azteeg X5 GT soon which is Smoothieware based.
As far as I understand, salifish and ReplicatorG is both open source.
https://github.com/jetty840/Sailfish-Mi … rdFirmware
https://github.com/makerbot/ReplicatorG
However, step/mm setting is not saved in firmware, it is considered machine setting when slicing and converted to .X3G file and can be adjusted in machines/replicator2X.xlm files for ReplicatorG or s3g/profiles/Replicator2X.json file for makerware. You can also change your start and end g-code here. You will have to restart ReplicatorG or Makerware for this change to take effect. For some version of makeware, you need to restart windows for this change to take effect.
And more importantly, you need to reslice your stl file to x3g again every time you change step/mm because change of step/mm is not happening in firmware, it is stored in machine settings and affecting x3g file when slicing, so it worth your time to do some measuring and calculation so that you can get that right in minimal attempt.
Also ReplicatorG can run in Windows 7 and above, but you need to disable driver signature enforcement, google how to do that in your windows version, I test in windows 10 and it works.
I bid two broken CTC Dual on ebay and get one working and the other waiting for nozzles. (I have 20+ 3D printer and none of them use MK8 nozzle.) The above is what I have learned so far, have not feel the need to replace main board yet.
I also found lots of EEPROM setting for different version of firmware in Makerware\s3g\EEPROM seems to store every setting we stored in Marlin including acceleration setting, PID tune values, DIGI POT setting, I will mess with those later when I have time.
As far as I understand, salifish and ReplicatorG is both open source.
https://github.com/jetty840/Sailfish-Mi … rdFirmware
https://github.com/makerbot/ReplicatorGHowever, step/mm setting is not saved in firmware, it is considered machine setting when slicing and converted to .X3G file and can be adjusted in machines/replicator2X.xlm files for ReplicatorG or s3g/profiles/Replicator2X.json file for makerware. You can also change your start and end g-code here. You will have to restart ReplicatorG or Makerware for this change to take effect. For some version of makeware, you need to restart windows for this change to take effect.
And more importantly, you need to reslice your stl file to x3g again every time you change step/mm because change of step/mm is not happening in firmware, it is stored in machine settings and affecting x3g file when slicing, so it worth your time to do some measuring and calculation so that you can get that right in minimal attempt.
Also ReplicatorG can run in Windows 7 and above, but you need to disable driver signature enforcement, google how to do that in your windows version, I test in windows 10 and it works.
I bid two broken CTC Dual on ebay and get one working and the other waiting for nozzles. (I have 20+ 3D printer and none of them use MK8 nozzle.) The above is what I have learned so far, have not feel the need to replace main board yet.
I also found lots of EEPROM setting for different version of firmware in Makerware\s3g\EEPROM seems to store every setting we stored in Marlin including acceleration setting, PID tune values, DIGI POT setting, I will mess with those later when I have time.
RepG is over 8 years old and not even supported anymore. The slicer it uses is outdated. Really your best option with such a machine is to swap out the logic and that way you can run current up to date slicers and host on it. Sailfish has also not been touched by devs in two years. It's not that hard, took me about two hours, Unlike a certain other company out there all the wires on this machine are different colors so it is easy to keep track of where they go.
I'm currently use Makerware 2.4.1 with latest version of Sailfish, the print quality is not as good as MonoPrice and iNSTONE but much better than Creality CR-10S, Da Vinci 1.0, Anet A8 and Hictop 3DP-11. Z-band is clearly visible at 0.2 mm layer height but very consistent and uniform, might be the filament that came with it or need to fine tune the extrusion rate. Otherwise it prints very well and trouble free after I mod the filament feeding system and bed leveling system.
I would like it more if it is a metal frame, unfortunately it is food frame painted to black color, which fooled me when I bid it, I will try to get it work with the latest version of MakerBot Desktop, and try to figure out the EEPROM thing. It that is not possible, I will play with Klipper firmware on it because one of the CPU is ATMEGA1280 (the other one is ATMEGA2560). I like to fix broken printer but hate to take a working printer apart and replace the main board for no specific reason (I know, my definition of fun is different than yours). I will definitely replace the main board with some cheap $15 MKS board if one day I burned the mighty board and can not fix it.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → 3D Printer Discussion → Dialing in the printer
Powered by PunBB, supported by Informer Technologies, Inc.