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Topic: Solidoodle 3 acting WIERD

I center a file to the bed, and it starts printing. Everything prints with each layer shifting towards the x home, till it bumps. once it hits the sensor, it starts building straight. what is causing this? once it homes on the X axis, it continues from that point and builds everything just fine.

3D Systems Cube, Hacked for Bulk Filament
Monoprice Replicator built from kit
Solidoodle 3, E3D Lite6, Rumba Upgrade
FT-i3 Mega, Looking for Dual Extruder Mods

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Re: Solidoodle 3 acting WIERD

whttnbrg wrote:

I center a file to the bed, and it starts printing. Everything prints with each layer shifting towards the x home, till it bumps. once it hits the sensor, it starts building straight. what is causing this? once it homes on the X axis, it continues from that point and builds everything just fine.

That IS weird!

Question:  Do you G28 before a print starts, to home all axes?

First thing I'd check is the belt tension on the X axis.  Loose belts and all that.

Then, I'd double-check/preventatively replace the X end stop switch and wire.  The end stop switch acting up can cause weird behavior during a print, including this.

I'd also check to make sure that my extruder wires aren't binding on something early on that lets them get popped back into position when the printer 'rehomes' itself.

Further Question:  Do you have a fan cooling your X axis motor?  The stock NEMA 14 motor overheats badly on its own, and can/will miss steps when hot.  This gets exacerbated with age.

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Re: Solidoodle 3 acting WIERD

A loose set screw maybe. Seems like a good place to check.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: Solidoodle 3 acting WIERD

I am getting a stop sensor sent Monday, Hopefully that fixes my issue. I don't have a fan on the motor, but I am printing PLA, and have 2 fans blowing into the printer

3D Systems Cube, Hacked for Bulk Filament
Monoprice Replicator built from kit
Solidoodle 3, E3D Lite6, Rumba Upgrade
FT-i3 Mega, Looking for Dual Extruder Mods

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Re: Solidoodle 3 acting WIERD

whttnbrg wrote:

I am getting a stop sensor sent Monday, Hopefully that fixes my issue. I don't have a fan on the motor, but I am printing PLA, and have 2 fans blowing into the printer

I highly, highly recommend a fan mounted on your X axis.  Before I did this on all of my printers, my X axis motor could burn me.  If you can print ABS or PETG, I recommend this simple press-fit bracket:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:128526

It's literally the first thing any new-to-me Solidoodle I get prints for itself.  The fans blowing into the printer might help, but they're no substitute for actively cooling the undersized motor with a nice, strong fan.

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Re: Solidoodle 3 acting WIERD

josefcub wrote:
whttnbrg wrote:

I am getting a stop sensor sent Monday, Hopefully that fixes my issue. I don't have a fan on the motor, but I am printing PLA, and have 2 fans blowing into the printer

I highly, highly recommend a fan mounted on your X axis.  Before I did this on all of my printers, my X axis motor could burn me.  If you can print ABS or PETG, I recommend this simple press-fit bracket:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:128526

It's literally the first thing any new-to-me Solidoodle I get prints for itself.  The fans blowing into the printer might help, but they're no substitute for actively cooling the undersized motor with a nice, strong fan.

Totally agree with this one! I use the same bracket for fans on the X motor.

Also make sure you belt is tensioned properly.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: Solidoodle 3 acting WIERD

Had the same problem with my SD3. Tried everything on the internet. Belts, drivers? carriages and so on. After calibrating everything that was possible the problem almost went away but not yet.
I've switched to 24V PSU lately.
Result: heated bed reaches 120 C for 5 minutes. No blinking leds. And YESSSSS. Shifting disappeared at all.