Need Help with Build Plate Heating/Power issues

Your power supply is cheap and cannot actually do 30 amps. During bed heating you will draw very close to 30 amps. You really need a 35 amp minimum. On my Kossel I have a 90 amps supply that was a converted server supply. That way I have more than enough current and I can ad lights and other things with out fear of it dropping. Plus being a server supply it will run it's rated output unlike those cheap LED supplies.

I repair supplies more exactly Rectifiers for a living. But they are essentially power supplies. Those 12 volt and ground connections are already common bussed inside the unit. They just five you multiple taps to make attaching multiple wires easy. If you don't believe me remove power and do an ohm check. He said one of those LED supplies. If it is specified by the seller as one of those then it is not a good brand like Meanwell and others. It is a Chinese clone and I have never seen a Chinese clone that can do it's rated idle voltage, much less under load. I have also never seen one that can do it's rated current either. I bought one to power my UV curing oven. It was rated at 30 amps just like this one but when I took it to work and put it on a controlled variable load. It could not do more than 15 amps. So if you have some then keep them as they are golden. But speaking from experience and exposure to a slew of Chinese supplies of this type I am pretty certain his power supply is out of spec. That's why i suggested a higher current to compensate for the low known output of Chinese supplies. You buy a 40, 50 amp supply and you might get a full 30 then. Not trying to argue, just stating experience which is based on volume of exposure to 50+ a week of these types of supplies all Chinese when I was doing game repair before my current rectifier repair job.