1 (edited by widespreaddeadhead 2017-03-07 20:20:27)

Topic: sd2 z axis leadscrew

First all I want to thank everyone for the wealth of information here! I couldn't have gotten this far without the help I received from the forum. Every piece of information I needed I was able to find with the forum search and google!

I picked up a SD2 a month or two back to refurb and because I want to enclose it to print ABS. Thanks to the information I found I added a fan to the X motor, swapped over to lawsy's carriages, applied the direct Y fix, and swapped to an e3d v6. Print quality was really good, but the banding was annoying. I researched as much as I could about swapping the 5/16 rod, and ultimately decided to swap it with a t8 leadscrew, mainly because I've had great experience with them on other printers.

The problem I'm having now is that when the Z changes direction, the nut has a little bit of give on the sides, and the screw wants to move that direction first, then move up or down like its supposed to.

Should I try to replaced the nut with a better quality one? Would an anti-backlash nut(https://folgertech.com/products/anti-backlash-nut-for-t8-4-start-lead-screw) fix this issue?

Thanks!!

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2

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

The $8 anti backlash nut will most likely solve that issue.  And from where you are now the easiest fix.

4 start lead screws are fast (44% faster than the 5/16-18 all thread) and as such they are less discrete (fewer steps to move any given distance).  Easy for any fit issues to cause errors.

I went too far the other way years ago with an M3 all thread Z axis on my SD3.  Super accurate and consistent, but REALLY SLOW.  Went with an M4 all thread on a later hack on a different printer.  I think that is a good compromise, but still a bit slow.

3

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

maybe this type of coupling would be a better idea?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachmen … 1389524157

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

4

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

heartless wrote:

maybe this type of coupling would be a better idea?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachmen … 1389524157

I'll try this next, even with the anti-backlash nut there is about 0.1mm of horizontal play in the nuts so when the Z axis changes direction, it has to make that up. If this doesn't work I'm just going to get a new screw and nut.

Thanks and onward!

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

5

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

0.1mm lateral play in a T8 4 start screw (ACME threadform, 29° included angle) is only a vertical play of 0.026mm (0.0011").  And the bed is biased by gravity so it ends up in the right place regardless.

I can't imagine you will notice any printing artifact due solely to this clearance.  Are you having print quality issues?  Is the banding still too much for you?

6

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

Hey rickq, thanks for your interest and let me fill in some info.

The leadscrews I got first, which the description didn't mention, are 2 start T8.

As long as I don't apply Z-hop or add auto-leveling it'll probably work just fine, but I'm kind of stubborn and want to to work correctly.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

7

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

A 2 start lead screw would exhibit even less vertical deviation for your suspected cause of whatever problem you have. 

So, yes, you are stubborn.

Good luck to you sir.

8 (edited by widespreaddeadhead 2017-03-29 18:36:53)

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

Thanks for your input rickq, I never actually ran any prints because I wanted to solve the issue first. Anyway, I finally ran some test prints and everything prints just fine. No noticeable wobble in the prints, although there is a little ringing. I was using translucent PETG. Will try with a solid color tonight and reports any issues if they arise.

Thanks!

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9

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

aside from the moire (different issue) that looks pretty good. smile

need to fine tune the voltage for your extruder motor to get rid of the moire wink

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

10

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

Thanks heartless! I'll work on that tonight.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

11 (edited by widespreaddeadhead 2017-03-30 16:32:39)

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

Would fine tuning the voltage eliminate or reduce it? I was doing some searching through the old posts this morning and there was a lot of chatter about replacing the stock 1.8 motor or upgrading the driver to 1/32...

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

12

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

at the very least it should be reduced... if you cant eliminate it all together, then upgrading to an 8825 stepper driver with 1/32 microstepping should solve the issue...

but that begs the question - what controller board do you have?

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

13

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

Good ole Sang!

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

14

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

widespreaddeadhead wrote:

Good ole Sang!

yay! makes things much easier, LOL

so yeah, if you cant dial out the moire on your current stepper driver, look into getting an 8825 - you would need to double the steps/mm in the firmware so it runs correctly, but that is pretty easily done.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1