being as the SD4 uses a 3 point leveling system, it is interesting that you have issues with the left rear corner, but nowhere else...
how much compression is on the springs? (ie: how tight do you have the bed to the bed frame?)
I generally tighten mine up to get close to the upturned sides of the bed frame, then adjust the endstop screw to get close with the nozzle, then fine tune. This results in a good amount of compression on the springs keeping things nice and stable.
Note the slight curve in the springs? They are compressed that much. And, there is less than 10mms between the underside of the bed and the top edge of the bed frame. Once I did this and got the bed dialed in I hardly ever need to touch the leveling screws anymore.
(also of note - I use the Hale heat-beds on my SD4s - AWESOME product! this is why you do not see that ridiculous fiberglass cloth hanging all over the place)
A view of the top side...
I did change the end-stop screw for a longer one that was then cut to a custom length when I swapped over to an E3D v6 hotend.
SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1