1 (edited by Anthem 2016-09-23 00:42:52)

Topic: Finding maximum print speeds

So my interest the last couple days has been this: how to reach the maximum print speed possible on my printer? I started having some more extrusion problems, and after watching a print closely realized I was under-extruding because some of my print speeds were higher than my hardware could handle.

I'm not talking about finding a speed that produces a certain quality -- I mean finding the maximum possible physical print speed on a given printer before you start to lose precision (no skipped steps, no extruder hitching, etc.)

So I did some research on this, and it makes sense that your maximum speed is normally going to be limited by the maximum speed at which you can extrude filament. There are several factors that come into play (and maybe more):

  • Nozzle size

  • Extruder power

  • Frictional losses (due to a bent bowden tube, clogs, or other physical impedence)

  • Filament viscosity

  • Heater power

  • Hotend mass

  • Layer height

Filament viscosity is influenced by the type of material, and also the temperature you use. Higher temps (within limits) reduce the viscosity. A larger nozzle means more filament can extrude faster. If your extruder is underpowered or lacks grip, it may slip or miss steps prematurely before you've maxed out the hotend's limitations. And clearly if you have any physical resistance contributing to that, the extruder will slip earlier.

Now on the hotend side, the more massive your hotend is, likely the faster it can transmit heat to the filament. Likewise the more power your heater uses, the faster it can heat the hotend. As the filament sinks heat from the hotend in order to melt, it cools the hotend, and a bigger heater should be able to compensate faster (assuming your PID is well-tuned). As the hotend cools because of heat conduction, the viscosity of the filament goes up and it gets more likely that your extruder will start slipping.

So, I think all of that makes sense, and it should take into account most of the physical forces involved here. I'm exploring this topic, so if any of you with more expertise, or perhaps degrees in physics want to add to or correct any of this, please do smile


In my case with my printer, I guessed that my hotend (E3D Lite6) was the limiting factor, with the amount of heat getting sucked out of the nozzle limiting how quickly I can extrude before it becomes too viscous and the extruder starts to slip.

To get a baseline, I chose a filament that I've been printing with happily at a known temperature: XYZprinting clear red, at 195c. I heated the hotend to that temperature, then extruded a known length of filament at a known feed rate using G1 commands. Using simple math I determined the volume of plastic that came from out from that extrusion, and slowly increased the feed rate until I reached the point where the extruder slipped.

That math is just the volume of a cylinder:
    volume = (filament diameter)/2 * pi * (raw extruded length)

So in my case that's about 2.41mm^3 per extruded mm.

Default feed rates are measured in mm/min, so an 'F60' in a G1 command means to extrude at a rate of 1mm/s.


Once I found the feed rate at which slippage occurs, I doubled the length of filament being extruded to check whether it slipped when extruding more filament (sucking heat out of the hotend for a longer time). If it did slip, I backed off the feed rate slightly until I reached a point where extruding 60mm of cold filament did not slip at all. This number was my baseline.

I also repeated the test at three temperatures to confirm whether, and by how much, temperature affected the extrusion rate.

My test showed the maximum feed rate for extruding 60mm of the material at the given temperatures:

@195c: Feed rate 130mm/min (2.17mm/s), volume: 5.21m^3/s
@200c: Feed rate 150mm/min (2.5mm/s), volume: 6.01m^3/s
@205c: Feed rate 170mm/min (2.83mm/s), volume: 6.81m^3/s

There's a clear trend here. I'm not an expert on fluid dynamics, nor did I take more samples than this, so I don't know if this is a linear trend across a wider range of temperatures, but what I have here appears roughly linear.

The problem is that this baseline doesn't account for the pressures involve when actually printing at a given layer height -- this is straight extrusion into thin air -- ideal extrusion.

But this baseline gave me a place to start. From these volumes, I calculated the maximum ideal extrusion speed (mm/s) to reach that rate of extrusion using this simple (and slightly idealized) formula:

    speed = volume / (nozzle diameter) * (layer height)

This means my maximum ideal extrusion rates are:

0.1mm layer @195c: 130 mm/s
0.2mm layer @195c: 65 mm/s
0.3mm layer @195c: 43 mm/s

0.1mm layer @200c: 150 mm/s
0.2mm layer @200c: 75 mm/s
0.3mm layer @200c: 50 mm/s

0.1mm layer @205c: 170 mm/s
0.2mm layer @205c: 85 mm/s
0.3mm layer @205c: 57 mm/s

Now, I never expected actual print speeds to match this, so I started doing some empirical testing. I started back at 195c and started plugging values into Slic3r. I set the Perimiters, Infill and Support Material speeds to my chosen value, and used a test model consisting of a sphere 60mm in diameter sitting atop a disk to act as a raft. I used 30% infill. This model let me see the perimeters (outside of the sphere), infill (inside of the sphere) and 30% rectilinear support material (around the bottom of the sphere) to see if the extrusion could keep up under each condition.

I watched the print, and if I heard anything more than rare slippage in the extruder, cancelled the print and backed off the speeds a bit until I achieved a speed where slippage was rare (at most one or two "clunks" per layer).

Interestingly, I found that infill was the hardest thing for my extruder to keep up with. It normally did better with support material, but I think that's because support material is often more sparse, so there's more chance for the extruded plastic to squeeze out around the existing layers rather than being smushed down on top of the last layer. Likewise for the bottom half of the sphere where the perimeter is open, and in this shape often being laid on top of support material.

Empirically, at 195c, I arrived at these maximum speeds and corresponding extrusion rates:

0.1mm layer height: 50 mm/s = 2m^3/s
0.2mm layer height: 40 mm/s = 3.2m^2/s
0.3mm layer height: 40 mm/s = 4.8m^3/s

Anything higher than this produced an unacceptable level of extruder slippage.

At 0.1 and 0.2mm layer heights, these values are close to half the idealized ("extrude into thin air") rates. At 0.3mm layer height, it seems we're getting into territory where there's enough room and low enough back-pressure to reach at least 90% of the idealized extrusion rate (which was 5.21m^3/s, which you can think of as roughly a 0.4 layer height, which is the nozzle diameter).

I'm thinking that this kind of procedure to measure the maximum extrusion rate at a given temperature would be useful for calibrating any new material you try to print with, or any new hotend or modifications affecting the hotend or extruder.

For example, we all know that 190-220c is the recommended temperature range for most PLA -- but how do you decide whether to use the lower temps or higher temps? This might be one way. Run this extrusion test to find out what temperature gives you a comparable ideal extrusion rate to some reference material that you know works well.

2

Re: Finding maximum print speeds

You have to run a calibration cube with every roll of filament you load in order to calibrate your feed rate and your temps for that roll as every roll even the same color and brand from the same vendor will be different. So I just make my adjustments while the calibration cube is printing through my LCD until I get desired results and that is my temp and speed for that roll.

However note, I am in no hurry to print and most of my prints run over night so speed is not a concern of mine. I average 30 to 40 mm/s depending on layer thickness and I am happy at those settings and speed.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

3 (edited by Edwin 2016-09-23 13:26:55)

Re: Finding maximum print speeds

Hi Anthem,

as you move in a very challenging issue.
I am working some time and build even printers that are suitable for very high printing speeds in still good quality.

First you must try first where the boundary of the feasible for your printer. I use to test parts with long Greaden, curves and closely spaced tines and increase all 5mm height the speed until it comes to a step loss. For this, the printer must be running longer to win a security.

It is also not suitable for each filament and one then operates partially with very high temperatures. If I process for Beispile with 300mm/s PLA can be depending on the PLA between 220 ° C and 260 ° C. Likewise with ABS with even higher temperatures.

Also to be printed part must be adapted. Small, file grane components can not print quickly. If these are but large and with long straight it is possible. Something I print ever with 300mm/s, which is more possible. I have tried it with more than 400mm/s.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzQbVSDghfM

To then have to achieve good prints are much optiemieren as here at this boxes I s printed with 200mm/s.

http://up.picr.de/26878000wm.jpg

http://up.picr.de/26877999bd.jpg

http://up.picr.de/26877998bf.jpg

http://up.picr.de/26877996zl.jpg

http://up.picr.de/26877997nz.jpg

Both boxes are printed with the identical G code of the SD card in vases fashion from PLA. The lower box to the clear Shadowing (overshoot) in 2.5h and 200mm /s. The Upper just about 5 minutes longer with a manual increase the speed on the display of 12.5%. The lower box I have created only with the possibilities of the slicer and the high speed intentionally chosen to provoke a clear Shadowing.
Oh, please do not disturb the other errors of the filament and the fnish. They have nothing to do with this topic.

Up to 100 mm / s, it is still relatively easy. Then, however, the difficulty increases greatly and the printer is usually the limit.


greetings Edwin

4

Re: Finding maximum print speeds

I am extremely happy, guys. I've upgraded my extruder to a 3dator Bowden (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1679553) using a Mk8 hobbed hear. I originally built this so I could print PVA better on my second extruder, since this design has closer tolerances around the hobbed gear, meant for printing flexibie filaments better. I was having trouble with PVA getting bend and jammed into the 3-4mm gap around the stock DaVinci Jr extruder.

With careful tuning, I was able to push this 3dator up to the 500 mm/min (8.3mm/s) feed rate for a "thin air" extrusion rate of 20m^3/s -- four times the extrusion rate of the 3maker All-Metal extruder I was using.

I had started to question the 3maker extruder because its springs are SO tight. I can barely squeeze the thing hard enough to release the filament. I began to question whether the tight springs were hampering its extrusion efforts more than they were helping. I also don't like that the gear it came with is a straight grooved gear. This made it very hard to align the filament when loading it, and I doubted whether it gave a good enough grip to begin with.

The 3dator design uses two 40mm M3 screws to provide the tension against the Mk8 gear instead of a spring. After adjusting my extrusion steps (from 94 to 147 as an initial estimate), I sat and ran my "thin air" extrusion test while carefully adjusting the pressure screws by 1/4 turn at a time. This kind of adjustment just isn't possible with the 3maker (although it does likely mean that I'll need to re-adjust this setting from time to time especially when changing materials).

I found through this process that if you have too much tension (I guess obviously, but as I'd guessed), this restricts the filament flow too much and you slip early, if you even manage to extrude at all. Whereas if it's too loose, obviously it won't grip enough and it'll just strip your filament.

With those adjustments in place, I'm now printing at 150mm/s with a 0.3mm layer height successfully with very minimal extruder slippage (that's 18m^3/s).

So needless to say, I'm very happy. I naturally get *no* slippage at all at my previous maximum rate of 40mm/s, which I'll probably continue to use for most parts that require any quality at all.