Topic: Printing Clear ABS
And its not working.
Makes a mess after getting about 4 layers down.
Any ideas?
Bed is at 105°C for initial layer then 100°C
Extruder is at 230° C all the time.
Too hot?
Not hot enough?
Scramjet
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → Printing Clear ABS
And its not working.
Makes a mess after getting about 4 layers down.
Any ideas?
Bed is at 105°C for initial layer then 100°C
Extruder is at 230° C all the time.
Too hot?
Not hot enough?
Scramjet
I print ABS just under 200c
I print many different colors of ABS and PLA with outstanding results, but my experience with Octive clear ABS has not been good. I've had fellow 3D printer hobbyists in town report similar difficulties with other brands of clear. I do not know what the specific composition of 'clear' is when compared to other colors, but it seems to be a challenge to print.
If someone cracks the code, let me know.
I print many different colors of ABS and PLA with outstanding results, but my experience with Octive clear ABS has not been good. I've had fellow 3D printer hobbyists in town report similar difficulties with other brands of clear. I do not know what the specific composition of 'clear' is when compared to other colors, but it seems to be a challenge to print.
If someone cracks the code, let me know.
On an E3D v6 I have had no issues with Octave clear ABS. I actually have some saved back, I really like the stuff--it's easier to print than PET. I've also found it doesn't warp as easily as regular ABS. I print it low, about 230. Using the fan a bit more often is a good idea.
I don't think it's actually "clear" ABS but a related material that can use a slightly lower extrusion temperature; it also doesn't have any smell if I remember correctly. It's very easy to extrude at high speeds too. Good for calibrating an extruder as well because Moire is More obvious.
What issues are you having?
Edit: Oh it is ABS. Perhaps a resin like this: http://www.ineos.com/Show-document/?Gra … ta%20Sheet
Oh I missed the OP somehow. . .
OP I think you may need to go to a lower temperature. I don't know if a stock Press hotend will have the same results at the E3D temps I listed in my last post. You could also try lowering the bed temperature some. This stuff seems to melt much easier, so back down on temperatures if you can, and maybe try a fan but too much will make it warp.
It would help to know some of your settings. how much infill? if the mess is in the infill either use more or use an infill pattern that doesn't rely on bridging like honeycomb. in my experience this stuff does not bridge well at high speeds, so try slowing down if you need low infill.
try 100% rectilinear infill, if you can print that then you know you're well calibrated on all other counts.
I cant do 100% infill on any ABS without it over filling and dragging nozzle through last layer making huge mess and not able to finish. even when calibrated perfect. it swells when heated. about 70% does best for full layers. even 80% over fills a bit after several layers and smushes out
My experience has been that clear versions of both PLA and ABS take lower temperatures and flow more freely. You may need to take more care with allowing small layers to cool, and maybe tweak the extrusion multiplier.
If you are trying to print something really clear, you may also want to go to a larger nozzle and slower print speed. Taulman has a good write up on it in their "Hacking T-Glase" write up and FormFutura says much the same about their HDClear.
http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html
Thanks for all the info guys.
However my bed has decided not to heat now so I'm out for another round of fixit.
Got 24VDC at the connector from the board so it must be the actual bed heater, at least that looks straight forward to replace.
Scramjet
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → Printing Clear ABS
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