1 Topic by rrssll

  • rrssll
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  • Registered: 2015-02-07
  • Posts: 42

Topic: Press bed size

The "tech specs" at http://www.solidoodle.com/Press still say

Creates plastic parts up to 8" x 8" x 8"

which is flat out untrue. I just jammed on the y-axis again because I'd set the bed size to 20cm by 20cm. The printer tried to print on one of the metal rails. I finally measured the area inside the metal rails and it's more like 7.5" or 190mm.

The same page also still claims it's Linux compatible even though they only recommend Soliprint which is only released for Windows & Mac. And it says it supports PLA, which they don't actually have on a spool for the Solidoodle Press. Last I heard they were still evaluating PLA on the Press.

No revelation here. Just griping. They really should correct at that page though.

2 Reply by mrallinwonder

  • mrallinwonder
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  • Registered: 2015-03-08
  • Posts: 35

Re: Press bed size

Getting to 200mm front to back seems to work.
Side to side is more difficult. If any element of the print - including the skirt or brim - comes close to the left side, print movements can touch the left side which drops the probe down with disastrous results.

So:
If only one dimension is near 200mm, rotate the print on the bed so the long dimension is front to back, NOT side to side
TURN OFF THE SKIRT & BRIM!! Even if the print is only 195mm wide, the skirt or brim can push it to 200mm, which will drop the probe.
Turning off the brim (in fact any Slic3r changes) is HARD. Make the change, save the change, close Soliprint, reload the new setting...usually that's enough. Quite often Soliprint/Slic3r still picks up previous settings...be ready to stop the print!
If you are close to the left edge, within 5 mm, you MUST stay with the print at all times. If you leave for a few minutes, the probe could catch and drop - and get ripped off by the side of the bed. Be ready at all times to pull the plug, no other way is fast enough.
Keep your print 195 wide or less, unless with a series of closely watched test prints you can prove the probe won't drop.
With a print 195mm wide or wider, don't let Soliprint center it. Move the print manually all the way to the right to avoid the left edge.
You can try carefully bending the right and back limit switch metal tabs to fine tune the 200x200 print space a little right and back. Do some simple test prints to verify the print head doesn't scrape the sides. BUT all warranties void, damage is your problem etc etc

Or...has anyone got a 200mm wide print?
Master class: 8" is actually 203mm...

3 Reply by rrssll

  • rrssll
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  • Registered: 2015-02-07
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Re: Press bed size

If you're still using Soliprint I strongly recommend installing the latest version of Slic3r from http://slic3r.org/ and looking at Octoprint instead. I put Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi v2 using the instructions at https://github.com/guysoft/OctoPi . If any of this is new to you there are videos like this one from Tom that walk through it all.

Slicing separately and using a separate print server (like Octoprint) lets you save off multiple groups of Slic3r settings. It's still complex but you get direct control without having to mess with Soliprint overriding you.

Repetier (or Repetier Host?) is another print server option that I know is popular. I haven't tried it but it's another good option. Cura is another popular slicer some people like better than Slic3r.

As for the skirt & brim, I find a large brim essential to prevent large parts from curling up off the bed. The print that caused me to write this complaining post is at http://www.thingiverse.com/make:166598 . You can see the curl happening on the back right corner in my timelapse at https://youtu.be/II9eYDSSNrg?t=1m25s . That part is 140mm wide and has a 10mm brim so 160mm total width. So I didn't need the whole width but Slic3r thought my bed was a full 200mm wide.

Longer term, I'm hoping to replace the heated bed and maybe I can get those extra few mm anyway.