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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filament → solidoodle filament settings?
Hello I own a solidoodle workbench, and I recently bought the 1.75 solidoodle abs. When I printed the keychain I generally use to test filament the pieces split in half. I am using a 40% infill the extruder is heated to 225 degrees and the print bed is 100 degrees
Hello I own a solidoodle workbench, and I recently bought the 1.75 solidoodle abs. When I printed the keychain I generally use to test filament the pieces split in half. I am using a 40% infill the extruder is heated to 225 degrees and the print bed is 100 degrees
There is not really a golden one number fits all printers. The issue is there is variance in each printer in regards to actual temp versus reported temp. They all vary plus or minus a few degrees. Then there is the issue with filament. Each batch will have different properties that will affect the temperature at which it prints and the speed needed to print it.
If you are getting splitting it is caused by poor layer adhesion due to low temps. Try raising your temp 5 to 10 degrees. Also uneven cooling will cause it. Make sure you printer is enclosed and maybe lower the bed temp. Reduce your infill. For parts that don't need to be strong like that keychain and similar a 10 to 20% fill is more than enough and allows for more even cooling.
You say raise my temp 5-10 degrees, what temp do you mean by that. Thank you for the help
Extruder temp, you'll also find in time that SD filament isn't the greatest. Treat yourself to a roll of Octave. The other issue you're having is caused by SD using standard threads for the Z axis on a system designed for metric. Try a layer height of .2963 instead of 3mm.
I am using a .1 layer height for the entire print, should I move it up the layer height?
Also when I move up the temperature on the extruder it shuts the printer off
If you want .1 layer height with a 5/16 rod, .09878 would be the height you enter in Slic3r
Also when I move up the temperature on the extruder it shuts the printer off
Then try lowering your extruder temp 225, and your bed to 90. Maybe print is staying too hot too long. What speed are you printing at?. For a .10 layer height you should be in the low 20mm/s or lower even. Lower layer height means lower speed.
For a .10 layer height you should be in the low 20mm/s or lower even. Lower layer height means lower speed.
Could you explain the logic behind this?
carl_m1968 wrote:For a .10 layer height you should be in the low 20mm/s or lower even. Lower layer height means lower speed.
Could you explain the logic behind this?
Personal experience of many years printing.
I changed the print bed heat on manual control and in printer settings. It still went up, job was able to set it down after slicing while the extruder heated from 215 to 225. Is there a more permanent fix to this?
Post a screenshot of your custom start code in your slicer.
cf.noja47 - as I told you in PM, YOU need to do the calibrations.
Every printer is different - even 2 of the same model will vary, just as every roll of filament is different - even from the same manufacturer (just like people are all different - even twins have differences)
No one can tell you any special numbers that are going to magically work for your printer and your filament. Sure, they can offer suggestions, but if you aren't willing to put in the effort to actually do the calibrations yourself on your printer, then you may as well pack it up and sell it now.
Sorry if that sounds a bit harsh, but you keep asking for help - both publicly and privately - yet don't seem to be willing to put in a little time and effort at least trying the things that are being suggested to you... it seems more like you want someone to offer you magic settings on a silver platter. Sorry, but those magic settings don't exist.
If you are serious about wanting to get your printer running better then you have to take the time to do the calibrations. there is no getting around it.
Yes, it sometimes seems like 2 steps forward, 3 steps back, but in the long run it is well worth the effort in learning how to properly calibrate things.
Every time I load up a new roll of filament, I do three initial calibrations.
Average filament diameter (it is very rare to have a roll average out to exactly 1.75mm, and it does make a difference in print accuracy)
Extrusion multiplier (for proper wall thickness)
Temperature calibration (to find the ideal temp for that particular roll)
Each one of these calibrations has a specific purpose and the settings will be unique to that particular roll of filament. I save a new profile in Slic3r's filament settings with that roll's color name & type and its specific settings - I like to change colors frequently, so saving a new profile for each roll makes my life much easier. I currently have 13 different filament settings (i am actually missing a couple of colors in there, having only started saving for each color in the last month or so - HUGE time saver!)
When I run out of a color and get a new roll, those same calibrations will be done again for the new roll and the new settings saved under that color name/type so all I have to do is pick the setting for that color.
The point is, every new roll gets the same treatment - calibration, calibration, calibration. But once it is done for that roll, it is done until that roll runs out.
come on guys
you know what the magic numbers are.
let the rest of us in on it.
all this calibrating stuff is some kind of scam...it must be.
3d printing is meant for the masses...plug it in and party on....hahahahaha 
anyway....time to get back to melting some plastic
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filament → solidoodle filament settings?
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