26 Reply by Rocketman

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

2n2r5 wrote:
elmoret wrote:
Rocketman wrote:

How do I set to DC volts and how do I rearrange the red and black wire on the meter between the 3 slots it has? And why was the other person on here suggesting I measure in Ohms. I am not sure which person I should listen to here.

Volts tests the power supply, wiring, and main board. Ohms is for testing the hot end.

I cannot provide more detailed instructions without knowing what meter you have.

Also, you'd get a lot more help here if you had a more thankful attitude. smile

+1

I'd be more thankful had it not broken in the first place and someone been able to fix it and accept my money for their help.

27 Reply by Rocketman

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

ronsii wrote:

Hot ends can fail at any time... usually right before the end of a very long print wink I have been very lucky in this respect and only lost a few hotends so far in all of my printers. It is just how the technology is at the moment and all of the consumer/hobby models use similar parts and design for their hotends... from what I can see if you have a 3d printer the hotend will fail after so many hours of printing( I don't have data on this) just look on some of the other forums out there for other 3d printers hotend failures are one of the main problems with current 3d printers.

Ok, back to the testing phase... with you printer's power unplugged go ahead and unplug both of the hotend plugs from the printer there is no setting on your multimeter that will hurt the hot end while testing it to determine if it is indeed the offending component. just place the meter in the horseshoe(ohms) position and connect the meter leads to one of the hotend plugs and see what the meter says then do the same with the other hotend plug and let us know what the results are.

ronsii, I'd like your input on this. Everyone else's advice is way over my head, and the pictures put up of the multimeter hardly at all resembles mine. I have an Amprobe AM-60. It doesn't have any numbered options on the dial or for the prong slots, and the slots appear like they might be in different order as well.

28 Reply by mconsidine

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

Ummm, if the meter you are talking about is the one pictured here
  http://content.amprobe.com/HighResImages/am-60.jpg

I find it almost impossible to not be able to map its selections to the most excellent post (with pictures) of a meter just above.

Do you have something different than this????

Matt

29 Reply by elmoret (edited by elmoret 2013-06-02 20:47:54)

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

2n2r5 wrote:

fixed

Major issue here - you've drawn him connecting to the 10ADC terminal, which measures amps, not volts, and will most definitely short out anything he connects it to.

EDIT: He fixed it

Filastruder - the robust, inexpensive filament extruder
E3Dv6 All Metal Hotend - the premier 3D printing hotend

30 Reply by 2n2r5 (edited by 2n2r5 2013-06-02 20:25:59)

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

Haha, that would have been funny. Fixed, and changed the multimeter photo all together.

Rocketman,

Please remember, we are here just because we want to help people. We are not asking for your money and have no stake in your printer working or not. We are just owners ourselves and not employees of solidoodle. We would like to see you get your printer working again though and have some advice if you are willing to take it.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

31 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

I know it seems easier to throw up your arms and say Someone do it for me" but it isn't that complicated, and the effort you take to learn to do it for yourself is a much better investment than $100 and shipping both ways (and I hope you kept the original packaging because UPS has killed many Solidoodles).

I never owned a multimeter until something went wrong with my own hot end.  I had never used one before, and didn't know how to check DC volts or where to plug the leads in.  I don't mean to be rude, but I answered the same questions you have about multimeters by reading the manual for mine.  If you don't have the manual, you can probably find a PDF by googling the model number.

32 Reply by dkeeling728

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

IanJohnson wrote:

I know it seems easier to throw up your arms and say Someone do it for me" but it isn't that complicated, and the effort you take to learn to do it for yourself is a much better investment than $100 and shipping both ways (and I hope you kept the original packaging because UPS has killed many Solidoodles).

I never owned a multimeter until something went wrong with my own hot end.  I had never used one before, and didn't know how to check DC volts or where to plug the leads in.  I don't mean to be rude, but I answered the same questions you have about multimeters by reading the manual for mine.  If you don't have the manual, you can probably find a PDF by googling the model number.


This.

Rocketman, you are an early adopter of an open source developed technology (everything on a solidoodle is based on reprap electroncs with a different frame built around it). all solidoodle did is assemble it for you. these things are not HP deskjets that can just plug and play.

not trying to be rude. just saying that you may be in a bit over your head if you have NO experience with electronics or robotics and are not willing to try to learn. the people posting here are trying to help you and you keep asking people to take your money. I was designing my own simple logic circuits when i was 10, so i know you can learn to use a mulitmeter and a soldering iron if necessary. its not hard or scary, and there is little you can do to damage the electronics with a multimeter as long as its not powered on when you probe around. just take an open minded approach to this problem and im sure you will come out of this ordeal an enlightened person!

33 Reply by Rocketman

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

2n2r5 wrote:

Haha, that would have been funny. Fixed, and changed the multimeter photo all together.

Rocketman,

Please remember, we are here just because we want to help people. We are not asking for your money and have no stake in your printer working or not. We are just owners ourselves and not employees of solidoodle. We would like to see you get your printer working again though and have some advice if you are willing to take it.


Well the problem is everyone is giving me different advice on what might be wrong with my printer, how to use my multimeter, and what measures of electricity I should use as well as whether or not the printer even needs to be plugged in. With that said it seems like it would be much easier and safer for that matter if I could find someone to pay that could fix it for me.

34 Reply by Rocketman

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

I earn far less than the poverty level so any expensive fuckup could really set me back. If it really is so easy to fix than why shouldn't it be easy to find someone willing to at least look at it for me? I've done all the testing on it I could from instructions I've read. And until the IBM guy looked it over for a month I wasn't even able to remove the wires from the hot-end and wasn't sure if they were meant to come off. It is really better if someone else does this.

35 Reply by danny

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

Rocketman wrote:

I earn far less than the poverty level so any expensive fuckup could really set me back. If it really is so easy to fix than why shouldn't it be easy to find someone willing to at least look at it for me? I've done all the testing on it I could from instructions I've read. And until the IBM guy looked it over for a month I wasn't even able to remove the wires from the hot-end and wasn't sure if they were meant to come off. It is really better if someone else does this.

I get the fear of fuckup.
I've broken expensive things before with a too much of a gun-ho attitude.
probably the most memorable was as a child breaking my families computer after saying I knew what I was doing, then a screw driver accidentally falling into it an shorting something whilst I was testing with the case off.

There are two ways that you can get help.

Either, post your location here, and hope that there is someone within a half hour or so that'd help you out if either you or they travelled.

or look for local hackerspaces, (on hackerspaces.org) these are buildings where people meet up to make things.
most hacker spaces have a 3d printer -so would know what they are doing when it came to fixing it) and those than don't would probably understand how to use a multimeter and how to fix it.

also, rather than paying them, most hacker spaces would probably happily help fix your machine either for the pleasure of helping someone out, or so that there was a working 3d printer in the hackerspace, -e.g they might fix it for you, and the only payment that they'd want was the ability to use it for an hour or so to print a part that they needed for their own project.

Or, you can stick with it, and try to learn how to resolve the issues yourself.

Most of use here would be more than happy to help you learn about electronics, and your machine and how to fix it.

honestly, If I were you I'd go for the finding a hackerspace approach, you can usually contact them by email, so you can discuss why you want to come, if there is anyone there who can help you, (when they'll be there) what if anything they'd want for fixing the thing, -you can find out from your home to save a wasted journey.

36 Reply by RavensCrest (edited by RavensCrest 2013-06-03 14:50:12)

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

@rocketman
I know you must LOVE 3D for you to commit to Solidoodle.   If you are really asking for local help, you should put up a new post listing location and $ reward.
Shit happens and it eats up our money... it sounds like you are afraid to spend more money and wants 100% garantee for your money spent... That is not going to happen from an internet forum. you should really contact solidoodle. if you want "suggestions" than you have to do your own research, not just rely on someone from internet 100%.
Here is my suggestion: There are four things that is associated to your problem. software, curcuit board <=> wire <=> resistor(hotend)

first, check your wire:  Use continuity function from your multimeter to check for the wires... (didn't see anyone suggesting this)
Second, check your resistor: black burn mark does not mean the hotend is burned out,  at least use multimeter to make sure it's broken. Ronsii suggested this already.
third. curcuit board test: you want to check voltage going into hotend is 12v (to prevent future problems)
fourth, Software: are you using dry run? can you manually increase heat (i don't this is a stupid check.. but who knows) can you move motor at all?

I didn't want to list details.. because that is where your research will take place. continuity function, ohm function, and volt function. what's the difference between DC AC voltage etc...

Solidoodle2 with Ceramic tile heated bed http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2544/my- … eated-bed/
"1kg should last for an while" is a lie!

37 Reply by Rocketman

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

danny wrote:

I get the fear of fuckup.
I've broken expensive things before with a too much of a gun-ho attitude.
probably the most memorable was as a child breaking my families computer after saying I knew what I was doing, then a screw driver accidentally falling into it an shorting something whilst I was testing with the case off.

I've already posted up my city on the previous page. I haven't yet found someone else with a 3D printer. I expect the local university of engineering students probably have a high end 3D printer and more, but I doubt they will help, but for good measures I'll post on C List. I also contacted a local electronic repair place. I think they focus on 3D TVs as their big repair item, but who knows. I'll see if I hear back from someone. I would feel better about doing the repairs myself if Solidoodle made a video for literally everything in great detail. Not just for leveling and calibrating the level. But I'd really like to find a solitary person in my area that understands this stuff already.

38 Reply by Rocketman

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

RavensCrest wrote:

@rocketman
I know you must LOVE 3D for you to commit to Solidoodle.   If you are really asking for local help, you should put up a new post listing location and $ reward.

I wouldn't say I love 3D as I never made any models before I got this machine. Had I realized it was more of a beta testing model I would have saved up for a makerbot. My main objective was to make money with things built, and before it broke I had someone interested in selling my items in their store. I've already contacted Solidoodle support. They don't offer much feedback on weekends and I've not heard anything back from them today either. Just waiting to hear something from someone. The back of the machine did give me 12.75 volts assuming I used to meter correctly. Some sparks resulted in the process. However this was after restarting the software and playing with some plugs. Even though the machine's LED lights were always on at first the back didn't appear to be giving any voltage at all, but now it does. Not sure if that is a major point of concern or a fluke.

39 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

The first google hit for "buffalo NY hackerspace" is www.buffalolab.org.   Take it there and not some TV repair guy who probably hasn't heard of 3d printing yet and will charge you $80 just to look at it and make guesses. 

Take some classes while you are there so you don't have to be so intimidated by Electronics.

40 Reply by Charles_Xavier

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

Rocketman wrote:

Had I realized it was more of a beta testing model I would have saved up for a makerbot.

I spend a LOT of time over in the Makerbot communities, and the grass is no greener over there, my friend. People have many of the same problems as they do here (imperfect mechanical design/assembly, poor documentation, slow support response times, complex machine marketed toward non-tinkerers). In fact, the entire 3D printer consumer market is rife with these problems. The main differences from my perspective is that the Makerbots are more expensive (so people feel more outraged when their machines don't work) and there are more numerous 'experts' available to give advice to people having trouble.

41 Reply by Krythis

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

IanJohnson wrote:

The first google hit for "buffalo NY hackerspace" is www.buffalolab.org.   Take it there and not some TV repair guy who probably hasn't heard of 3d printing yet and will charge you $80 just to look at it and make guesses. 

Take some classes while you are there so you don't have to be so intimidated by Electronics.

Nice, this place is located 5m down the road from me! Will have to check them out sometime

E3D-v4 Hotend, MK5 carriage with round plastic wire conduit , 3/16" tempered glass,  Well nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, PowerEdge 2650 500W PS, QU-BD heated bed, circuit board fan, hinged plexiglass enclosure with plastic tray top. Other than that mostly stock SD3

42 Reply by Rocketman

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

Krythis wrote:
IanJohnson wrote:

The first google hit for "buffalo NY hackerspace" is www.buffalolab.org.   Take it there and not some TV repair guy who probably hasn't heard of 3d printing yet and will charge you $80 just to look at it and make guesses. 

Take some classes while you are there so you don't have to be so intimidated by Electronics.

Nice, this place is located 5m down the road from me! Will have to check them out sometime


You're from the Buffalo area also? I finally found someone else around here with one of these. lol.

43 Reply by Rocketman

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

Charles_Xavier wrote:
Rocketman wrote:

Had I realized it was more of a beta testing model I would have saved up for a makerbot.

I spend a LOT of time over in the Makerbot communities, and the grass is no greener over there, my friend. People have many of the same problems as they do here (imperfect mechanical design/assembly, poor documentation, slow support response times, complex machine marketed toward non-tinkerers). In fact, the entire 3D printer consumer market is rife with these problems. The main differences from my perspective is that the Makerbots are more expensive (so people feel more outraged when their machines don't work) and there are more numerous 'experts' available to give advice to people having trouble.

Would you say Makerbot produces higher quality models? So far Solidoodle has created models for me with a lot of ridges around the outside. At least the model pictures at thingiverse make the models seem smoother by far and I just assume they weren't made with a Solidoodle.

44 Reply by 2n2r5 (edited by 2n2r5 2013-06-05 04:40:41)

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

Rocketman wrote:
Charles_Xavier wrote:
Rocketman wrote:

Had I realized it was more of a beta testing model I would have saved up for a makerbot.

I spend a LOT of time over in the Makerbot communities, and the grass is no greener over there, my friend. People have many of the same problems as they do here (imperfect mechanical design/assembly, poor documentation, slow support response times, complex machine marketed toward non-tinkerers). In fact, the entire 3D printer consumer market is rife with these problems. The main differences from my perspective is that the Makerbots are more expensive (so people feel more outraged when their machines don't work) and there are more numerous 'experts' available to give advice to people having trouble.

Would you say Makerbot produces higher quality models? So far Solidoodle has created models for me with a lot of ridges around the outside. At least the model pictures at thingiverse make the models seem smoother by far and I just assume they weren't made with a Solidoodle.


Here is one of my bad prints. I would say that it is as good or better than prints that you will find on some other machines out there. This was done with my solidoodle 3
http://2n2r5.com/pictures/printer/bad_print.jpg

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

45 Reply by Krythis

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

Rocketman wrote:

You're from the Buffalo area also? I finally found someone else around here with one of these. lol.

Yea, there's at least a 3 or so on here from the Buffalo area.

E3D-v4 Hotend, MK5 carriage with round plastic wire conduit , 3/16" tempered glass,  Well nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, PowerEdge 2650 500W PS, QU-BD heated bed, circuit board fan, hinged plexiglass enclosure with plastic tray top. Other than that mostly stock SD3

46 Reply by RavensCrest

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

2n2r5 wrote:

Here is one of my bad prints.

which part is bad?!

Solidoodle2 with Ceramic tile heated bed http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2544/my- … eated-bed/
"1kg should last for an while" is a lie!

47 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

RavensCrest wrote:
2n2r5 wrote:

Here is one of my bad prints.

which part is bad?!

The face is malformed and the hair in front is supposed to come straight down. looks like I have some artifacts from using an old version of RH.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

48 Reply by Charles_Xavier

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

Rocketman wrote:

Would you say Makerbot produces higher quality models? So far Solidoodle has created models for me with a lot of ridges around the outside. At least the model pictures at thingiverse make the models seem smoother by far and I just assume they weren't made with a Solidoodle.

If you're asking "Does a properly dialed-in Makerbot that has had hundreds of dollars of upgrades produce higher quality results than a perfectly dialed-in and upgraded Solidoodle?" my opinion is the answer is probably yes. But the path is every bit as expensive, time-consuming, and frustrating, and to pay $2k extra for the machine from the get-go is untenable for many people. I personally think that if you put the same amount of work into a $600 machine to get great results that you would need to put into a $3k machine to get greater results, why not pocket the difference and call it a day?

I think by now you should have seen that many Solidoodle users are creating beautiful prints, flawless pieces that most people wouldn't be able to guess what printer they came off of. It takes a lot of time and work, but it is proven to be possible.

49 Reply by Rocketman

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

Krythis wrote:
Rocketman wrote:

You're from the Buffalo area also? I finally found someone else around here with one of these. lol.

Yea, there's at least a 3 or so on here from the Buffalo area.


http://www.lifetimeservice.com/

Ever hear of these guys? I called and the customer service person made it seem like they had some experience with 3D printers. Also a couple people from buffalolab seemed willing to work on my printer for free. I'm worried there is a catch of some kind, but at this point both seem like viable options.

50 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: Solidoodle Printer Still Broken.

BuffaloLab actually has 3D printers so they will have experience with what hardware is common to printers, what may be unique, and what problems are issues with 3D Printing in general and not hardware.  They would be willing to work on your printer for free because it's fun.