SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — question about infill types

Re: question about infill types

null@example.com (n2ri) — Mon, 16 Feb 2015 00:52:19 +0000

bridging is very hard without a part cooling fan at nozzle. I set my speed at 10 and still cant do some. need fan bad but SD didnt even install board pins for it. I can print the whistle though by using an aquarium air pump hose by hand at nozzle during bridging.

Re: question about infill types

null@example.com (Tin Falcon) — Sun, 15 Feb 2015 20:03:48 +0000

I printed the bridge test print. Seems like slow is better. I dropped the bridge print speed to 10 and pretty much eliminated fill by adding perimeters. the first test print not very successful dropped some layers on the first level. and level 4 a mess stopped the print . the second attempt looks very good. some bottom layer sag. the point is with the right settings you should be able to bridge 50 mm . not necessarily recommended but can be done.
Tin

Re: question about infill types

null@example.com (Tin Falcon) — Sun, 15 Feb 2015 17:13:42 +0000

Ok I think what you are really asking is how to set bridge settings. And wanting to bridge a 50 mm gap. From what I have read this should be doable. so set your bridge speed to something like 25 -35 mm /sec in slicer and then try a bridge test print such as the one found here. You may have to experiment with bridge speeds but it seems to an extent slower is better.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533472

I have a print going when it is done I will try the same see if I can improve things for both of us.
tin

Re: question about infill types

null@example.com (redbarret) — Sun, 15 Feb 2015 16:32:51 +0000

I've read the slic3r page but it doesn't go far than telling that certain types of infill might work better for certain models and denser infill is not required if the model doesn't have to be strong.
That's all it says.

Let's say for example you're printing a 5cmx5cmx5cm cube. Unless I choose to use 40% or so infill density, the top wall will have not enough support below it and the print will fail with top wall having holes.
I need something like Support, but for the inside of the model, if that makes sense.
Imagine this is a side cutout of a cube, terrible illustrations but I think you'll get the idea:

At high infill, it will print fine, but with wasted filament, print time, and strength and weight I don't need.

At lower infill, the filament of the top layer will not have enough support below it and I will end up with holes on the top of the cube:

I'm guessing something like this would help and also not waste as much print time and filament:

Basically something like Support but for the "inside" of the model.

I hope I could explain.
I can't find such 3d infill type or anything else that will help and I won't need to print almost everything at 40% infill.

Re: question about infill types

null@example.com (n2ri) — Sun, 15 Feb 2015 02:16:51 +0000

I switched to Honeycomb from rectilinear due to it attaches to sides better and keeps cylindre shapes from colapsing and making holes in model also. so faster due to no wasted material and several retry's of print

Re: question about infill types

null@example.com (Tin Falcon) — Sun, 15 Feb 2015 00:56:47 +0000

I find that 20% honeycomb works well for most applications. As you say rectilinear would be faster.
this page explains it quite well and has a lot of drawings of various infills and densities.

http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/infill

Tin

question about infill types

null@example.com (redbarret) — Sat, 14 Feb 2015 21:46:26 +0000

This is one of the few things I haven't discussed because of dozens of other issues I've had in the past few months.

Which infill type do you use and why?
I've went with the default honeycomb since now but now I'm considering using plain rectilinear to save time.
I guess honeycomb structures are stronger, but at high infill density is it really that different?

And all infill types I know kinda suck when the density is low, top of the model needs something like Support from the inside of the model, but there isn't one so the plastic just melts down. Is there maybe some "pillar" style or other (3d?) infill type that will help with this?