So here it is:

second one looks good, big improvement.

But, I am not quite sure why you're using a raft. You have a heated bed, so it should not really be needed. In fact, might reduce adhesion.

The only other thing that helps me (besides considerate part design) is turning on a brim. you need a different slicer than skeinforge for brim.

-I set the table temp to 90c (5c increments being careful not to destroy the whole thing).

Mine hit 110 without it destroying itself...you should be fine at 95

Last time I made a huge warp'er, it was mostly because of how I designed it. I made a rectangular case and printed it upside down, so there were two 150mm beams that REALLY wanted to warp.

I printed it a second time with removable supports and ribbing that helped reduce the stress of the warping, or at least restrain it.  That was much better. So there are a number of things you could do, depending on how you made your file.

I tried again last night, with a different setup.

Since my design is parametric, it was easy to change it a bit:
-I thinned the walls from 5mm to 3mm, I had to do some change to the edges filleting.
-I measured my resulting inner holes diameter and widened them by 0.2mm to get real 0.5mm holes.
-I set the table temp to 90c (5c increments being careful not to destroy the whole thing).
-I extruded some text art through the slab part : "S O A P" using the "Stencil" font so the letters internal parts are held (That's cool).
The resulting text holes allowed the slab to release a little stress, ... ahhhhh... much less bending on the floor

-The little soap holder is kind of a square box with no top, rounded edges, having a drain at the bottom and the floor is raised one one side to allow the water to drip. There are two holes on the back side to allow screws. I cut it in two to be able to print it without support and Im planning to glue it with superglue.

-Printing Orientation, the floor parts are actually the left and right sides.

-It's not perfect, but it is much better. The floor slab is fine, much less bending.
But about 30mm up (over the slab, in the sides wall ), some layers cracked leaving a few horizontal hair crack (neglectable). I can live with that.

I will be printing the second part tonight.
So the final task will be to meet the glue edges together, I installed a small macthing rib on both faces to improve that.
Maybe Ill poste a picture when Im done.

raise your bed temp to 95c.

+1

Hi,
I have been trying to design my own shower soap dish, everyone does.
I have found a way to slice my design in two, with gluable lips, so it can then be printed.
Then I turned and turned my model around to find the right way to print it with minimum overhang.
But eventually, I started printing it, cut in two from front to back, bottom down.
So there is a large flat thick slab of plastic on the printer floor, with a raft.
I understand plastic physics and shrinking while cooling.
My slab tend to warp a lot, after reaching altitude 5mm, the two visible front corners started lifting a lot, raising the raft with it.
So what was supposed to be a flat floor started looking like a rocking chair.
And at altitude 8mm, the deformation was so intense that the head got stuck in plastic still soft and warm.
EMERGENCY STOP
Do you have any advice for me for printing a better layed flat thick wall ?
Thank-you

(Solidoodle 2, White ABS, 200c / 85c, 0.3mm, pronterface + skeinforge)

I highly recommend ABS glue.  Also, raise your bed temp to 95c.

You could try printing it with PLA, it should have less issues with warp.  Releveling your bed can help, as an incorrectly leveled bed can exacerbation the warping. I would also suggest switching over to slic3r and using a brim.  How thick are you walls?

In slic3r, I would print a soap dish with 3-4 perimeters and 15% honeycomb infill.

All walls are 5mm thick, including the slab.
I wanted something really solid, should I try with thinner walls ?
My bed is quite levelled, manually moving the head at altitude 0 is uniform across the table.

Would adding some "decorative" holes everywhere would help relieve the cooling stress?

In slic3r, I would print a soap dish with 3-4 perimeters and 15% honeycomb infill.

(Solidoodle 2, White ABS, 200c / 85c, 0.3mm, pronterface + skeinforge)