Also, the 1/4" glass bed works great. I gave it one shot of White Rain hair spray, light one, and I haven't had to do anything to it since them. Done maybe six prints and each one holds well and snaps of cleanly when the plate cools. I've switched back to ABS as I wasn't real happy with the PLA output. Seeing I got a good print of a part today I might swithc back to PLA to see if that prints as good. One thing I found is I need to start with 195C for the first few layers then lower to !93C for the remainder of the print. I also lowered the bed temp from 100C to 80C and everything looks real good.

The longer screw may be coincidence, but it would be cool if they made tweaks to the design that make it easier to make some of these additions.  The glass is a simple enough solution for the problem of warped aluminum.  It makes sense for SD to make that addition as easy as possible without messing around with cutting and shipping glass themselves, or replacing aluminum plates.

Another area they could help would be adding headers to the expansion pins on the board.  If those headers were there, anyone could simply buy a SDSL from Emaker, stick it on, and have SD card suppport.  Same with the Viki LCD once it's released, and there are some MOSFET kits for fan control out now that take minimal soldering.  Someone could even wire up some of those boards to fans and connectors and offer a plug and play nozzle fan.

It would help if those things were quietly enabled in the shipping firmware, which is easily updated in older printers.  Unless you are missing a bootloader, then too bad for you apparently.

If those things were in place, then it would be easy to buy a $600-700 printer, spend $150 on add-ons and have a $1500 printer.

You can just turn the original screw upside down and adjust it by hand or with a cutoff allen wrench.

That's a real handy approach to fixing the issue of adding a glass bed. My glass is 1/4" thick but this will still do the trick. I downloaded your file and I'll see if I can get it printed tomorrow.

You can just turn the original screw upside down and adjust it by hand or with a cutoff allen wrench.

That's a real good apporach to solving the issue, lower the screw so you can use the original one. Nice going. I downloaded your file. I'll see if I can print it tomorrow.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/964/lowe … ew-holder/

Does any one have an STL file of the Z Limit switch holder? I'd like to make a new one and thread it to match the screw. Onlly other option, besides waiting forever for Solidoodle to send one, is to make one out of aluminum.

Other question is, what to use on the glass to get the PLA to stick to it. I've heard about hair spray and then some solutions. Which is really best and does the table need to be heatead for those?

Thanks,