Looks like hell to get to these though.

It's actually pretty easy. 

First you Lower the bed to the bottom of the Z-Axis.  There are two Philips screws on either side of the Z-Axis motor between the rail nuts, remove those and then you can remove the plastic cover over the Z-Axis screw and rails.  You need to gently bow the cover towards you at it's mid point and the top will pop out.

The tricky part is when you're replacing the plastic cover, you need to ensure the wires for the heating element on the bed go in the notch on the plastic cover.  Once you have that you just bow the cover and tuck the top back under the lip of the ledge the Z-Axis motor rests on.

As I've posted earlier I read that for the Marlin auto leveling to work properly there needs to be zero backlash.

I picked up an assortment of springs the other day so I decided to give it a shot... and it has worked.

<a href="http://imgur.com/a/xBISe">Here is an album.</a>

I can happily report that my first layer is now perfectly consistent.

That's great news.  I had come across this anti-backlash upgrade and was contemplating tearing my Press down to see if something similar could be fabricated.  I'm glad to hear you were able to fix it.

I picked up an assortment of springs the other day so I decided to give it a shot... and it has worked.

<a href="http://imgur.com/a/xBISe">Here is an album.</a>

I can happily report that my first layer is now perfectly consistent.

I proceeded to lower the back of the bed in respect to the front of the bed by 5mm. I then went onto checking the bed with a dial indicator and measured from the carriage to the bed. I am perpendicular as possible.

After all the above is said and done I went and started a print and still ended up with the first layer smashed in the back and above off the bed in the front.

I'm leaning towards this is a software issue. Has anyone re flashed the Press?

EDIT: After some digging around the soliforum I read that the Marlin auto level does not work with backlash. Has anyone notice backlash on there Press?

I'm going to see about getting some longer screws so that I can remove the bed and place it above the clamps, which also means I'll have to resort to bulldog clips to hold the glass to the bed.  It also means I'll be losing a little height on the Z-Axis.

Second, when the Press goes through the probing and at the end of the print (with Soliprint) the Z axis moves to a point about 5 inches down. With a mirror and light I can see there is a switch at this point. Is there a G code to position the Z axis to this switch?

What switch are you referring to?

MacGyverX posted in another thread the Slic3r code for performing bed set z-offset.

wardjr wrote:

Level in relation to the nozzle is what is important not so much level to the earth.

I understand that is the goal, is there a better way to go about it?

Yes, you can use a business card between the nozzle and the bed to adjust the bed but your biggest challenge is making an easy way to adjust it.  I don't use the business card personally.  I find it easier to print a single layer circle and adjust accordingly. 

There is nothing wrong with your method but we are dealing in microns here so even the best digital protractor or level isn't going to help you.  Some users use a dial indicator mounted to the extruder but that is overkill in my mind.

Level in relation to the nozzle is what is important not so much level to the earth.

I understand that is the goal, is there a better way to go about it?