..Hairspray or glue stick? To me it's like, Ford or Chevy...

This is kind of an awesome analogy.

Bonus - I'm using a razor blade on each side of the glass, on top, pushed under the metal rails on each side to prevent the glass from moving.  So far it's working well, and it keeps my razor blade handy for cleaning.

How much glue do you usually apply?  I'm having varying degrees of success with it.

Enough to notice its there but not so much that it is caked on.  If you are printing on glass, look at it at an angle and you should see a hazed finish instead of glossy glass to see if you missed a spot.  Just put it in the area that you need for this particular print.  After a couple days or a couple dozen prints you should really begin to get a feel for it.  I will never go back to hairspray.

Glue stick is also cheaper and available everywhere, unlike the aquanet extra super hold that is generally recommended if you use hairspray.  Glue stick all the way!

I get a lot of shell warping with the filament that came with the printer, so you might try another spool. The spool included with my printer was in an unsealed bag in a marine environemnt for some weeks, so I'm, going to try drying it.

Do you see any small bubbles in your prints due to filament absorbed humidity?

2. Clean the bed before every print with acetone and then lay down a fine mist of hair spray. Use good extra hold hair spray. You shouldn't soak the bed, just add some gripping capability.

You don't have to wipe it down with acetone after every print. I'm currently on my 20th (+/-) print without cleaning or adding more hairspray. You are correct, though. A generous mist is all you need. Let that sit for a few before heating up and printing.

Aside from that, this is a good writeup especially for large prints.

1. Print with the door closed. By keeping the build area a relatively consistent temperature, you can help eliminate internal temperature variations that cause warp in the first place.

2. Clean the bed before every print with acetone and then lay down a fine mist of hair spray. Use good extra hold hair spray. You shouldn't soak the bed, just add some gripping capability.

3. Print a BIG brim. If you're using RepetierHost and Cura, print a raft. Rafts are awesome at helping eliminate warp. If you're using SoliPrint, the brim feature is great. I don't have a general rule for brim sizes, just make it a lot.

4. After the first couple layers are laid down, drop the bed temperature to 70ish C over the course of a couple minutes. You'll probably have to do this manually but it's important not to do it all at once because you run the risk of causing the ABS to be at a much higher temperature than the bed which can dislodge the print from the bed. By lowering the temperature slowly, you're ensuring that the bed and the print remain the same even temperature. Lowering the bed temperature essentially "freezes" the bottom layers of ABS and removes their pliability so they don't warp as easily. This alone won't eliminate ALL warp but it will certainly help.

Good luck.