rockosmodlife wrote:

madmike8 wrote:

i wonder if buying these and screwing them down on the top of the M6 nozzle would do the trick for the older heads?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-PCS-He … 4ad8b81a66

I was wondering if there was something like this- a threaded series of disks that acts as a heatsink. Ill get clearance measurements to see what the neck can fit tonight.

Did you ever find out if this would work?

As far as I'm aware, as long as the metal doesnt point out past the front of the carriage things its held in by, the threaded pole is 6mm including the thread.

I got 3 quite big washers with 6mm holes so if they fit when i try and put them in tomorrow I'l let ys' know

madmike8 wrote:

i wonder if buying these and screwing them down on the top of the M6 nozzle would do the trick for the older heads?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-PCS-He … 4ad8b81a66

I was wondering if there was something like this- a threaded series of disks that acts as a heatsink. Ill get clearance measurements to see what the neck can fit tonight.

Did you ever find out if this would work?

i wonder if buying these and screwing them down on the top of the M6 nozzle would do the trick for the older heads?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-PCS-He … 4ad8b81a66

I was wondering if there was something like this- a threaded series of disks that acts as a heatsink. Ill get clearance measurements to see what the neck can fit tonight.

I see. I wonder why your PLA does not swell in the neck. Great job though! Paving the way for others to run low risk PLA jobs with the same hardware. Do you have a picture of your fan setup as it is now? Is it traveling on the carriage or stationary on the side?

Very interesting. Did you do any modifications to your hot end or does the 2.0A have a better heatsink than the 1.0 that manages to keep the hot end neck temps in check?

Nope, nothing. Just the xyzpro to change the cartridge base settings (and reset cartridge ofc).

For pla I had to put a fan on a side (one 5v usb connected) on the side, because if not there was a bit of curling, specially on the overhangs. On one of the photos (the one that has the red abs) I'm making a fan mount to cool down the pla while it prints, but nothing on the hot end.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-PCS-He … 4ad8b81a66

I have duo 2.0A And I have been printing PLA non stop since I got it (1 week) I had a aio before but sold it to a friend.

The pla of this photo (I have do prints of 8h with no problems) it's a very cheap one from a seller here in madrid, it's nothing special.

This little toys for my children. Inked it fast with a black marker.

The prints where done at 175-185C, the one of the right went bad because supports and forgot to turn on the side fan I have prepare. PLA does a lot of curling on overhangs (specially this cheapo pla)

For my bed I go 31C (basically off), blue tape and hair spray applied with a sponge (hair spray over the sponge and then I apply it to the blue tape).

For long prints, you need a fan (I'll like to test some expensive pla but I have used a lot of cash on wood filaments)

The yellow filament of the back of the photo it's the next one I want to try for some project.

I'll post more pla photos in a moment, 2 fan boxes i'm working on that I'm not gonna use.

Also I print with S3D direct from the program (I'm using the default firmware that comes with the duo 2.0A.

Edit. The last photo it's from a fan box I'm working on to cool the printed pla (not the head) and get a clean-no-curl pla print. (the one of the back in red it's ABS)

Edit. Last photo. Wood (it's pla + wood 20-40% wood or something alike). This was printed on the aio. Sanded a bit to test the decoloring and has curling problem on the edges because I was on my learning curve with this material.

Very interesting. Did you do any modifications to your hot end or does the 2.0A have a better heatsink than the 1.0 that manages to keep the hot end neck temps in check?

The pla of this photo (I have do prints of 8h with no problems) it's a very cheap one from a seller here in madrid, it's nothing special.

This little toys for my children. Inked it fast with a black marker.

The prints where done at 175-185C, the one of the right went bad because supports and forgot to turn on the side fan I have prepare. PLA does a lot of curling on overhangs (specially this cheapo pla)

For my bed I go 31C (basically off), blue tape and hair spray applied with a sponge (hair spray over the sponge and then I apply it to the blue tape).

For long prints, you need a fan (I'll like to test some expensive pla but I have used a lot of cash on wood filaments)

The yellow filament of the back of the photo it's the next one I want to try for some project.

I'll post more pla photos in a moment, 2 fan boxes i'm working on that I'm not gonna use.

Also I print with S3D direct from the program (I'm using the default firmware that comes with the duo 2.0A.

Edit. The last photo it's from a fan box I'm working on to cool the printed pla (not the head) and get a clean-no-curl pla print. (the one of the back in red it's ABS)

Edit. Last photo. Wood (it's pla + wood 20-40% wood or something alike). This was printed on the aio. Sanded a bit to test the decoloring and has curling problem on the edges because I was on my learning curve with this material.

Without removing the print unit, which I would not like to do until absolutely necessary, is the attach photo enough to tell if these are the heat sink fins being discussed.  So does this indicate my 1.0A printer is PLA print ready?

Thanks

Those are the fins, so according to XYZ you should be able to, but not making any promises myself. I believe one user here in fact the one above your post had those fins and had to add more of his own before he could do PLA successfully.

Thanks

Update: I made it 5 hours without any flaws!

georgehine wrote:

I was under the impression that the 1.0A had the correct extruder.

The XYZ webstore now sells PLA carts and refills but says only compatible with the AiO... I kinda thought the Duo would be supported as well.

I think it is early yet.  They said the 1.0A was compatible for me (my version) and mine has a hot end is similar in design to the 2.0.  They link their partner retailers but it is not available yet from them.

Look at this page:

http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/PLA

This was interesting:

Extruder application
Buy Extruder
To ensure the printing quality, please prepare separate extruder for different printing material. After changing the extruder for different material and loading filament successfully, please remember to calibrate the print bed before printing.