EDIT: Odd, cant find a Solidoodle spool size "filament spool bearing cap" like this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:69520
As for vertical spool holders, there are several
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39879
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:97734

I think what you can do now is to try to increase the speed of youe printer and see if your new fan allows to run faster.

TickTock wrote:

I had the fan off to adjust my wires and decide to do a proper experiment.  I printed four tentacle segments of the octopus recently featured on Thingiverse at 2X scale.  First without the fan and again after reattaching the fan.  Everything else held constant (same slicer code, filament, temperatures, etc).  The benefit of the extruder fan is clear (top four are with fan on and bottom four and sans fan).

Cool.
Pla/abs?
Infill settings, and support disabled?

• ABS (eBay seller:eshop2018 - love this filament, I have too many spools from other suppliers I cannot make print well)

• no support

• 40% infill

• 4 perimeters minimum + 4 solid layers top & bottom

• 0.19755 layer height

• 150% first layer height for adhesion (I get some lifting at 100% and 200% breaks the glass when I try to remove)

• 100C bed temp (105C first layer)

• 205C extruder temp

• 50mm/s perimeter

• 60mm/s infill

• glass bed+hair spray

I had the fan off to adjust my wires and decide to do a proper experiment.  I printed four tentacle segments of the octopus recently featured on Thingiverse at 2X scale.  First without the fan and again after reattaching the fan.  Everything else held constant (same slicer code, filament, temperatures, etc).  The benefit of the extruder fan is clear (top four are with fan on and bottom four and sans fan).

Cool.
Pla/abs?
Infill settings, and support disabled?

Yep, I call it my lucky plate!

That is some plate! I really laughed about the cast iron comment, have half a dozen cast iron pans and that was the first thing I thought too!

jagowilson wrote:

Spraying aquanet on both sides of the glass and using that for bed adhesion also creates a much more level surface than binder clips.

What if you want to take off the glass plate though?

You just put the scraper Solidoodle gave you under it and it comes right up. Then just put the glass back and let it sit for a minute or two before starting your next print. I have to renew the bottom hairspray every 10 prints or so or the head will knock the glass around.

I go through a lot of aquanet but it's so cheap I don't mind. It's like $2 at Walmart here.

Spraying aquanet on both sides of the glass and using that for bed adhesion also creates a much more level surface than binder clips.

What if you want to take off the glass plate though?

I think there's some science to it. The texture gives the plastic a surface to grip to, but There may be a chemical bond of some sort between the aquanet and plastic as well. I've attached a picture of my bed glass. It is pretty filthy. I have utilized my entire build volume without warping even though I use the stock heater. Spraying aquanet on both sides of the glass and using that for bed adhesion also creates a much more level surface than binder clips.

Definitely don't spray inside the machine!

Interesting comment about the "filthy" bed.  Do you reapply hairspray on top of the old?  I always clean mine first.  Goes to show how this is still very much more an art than a science - I have the opposite experience.  After putting a fresh plate on, I get maybe ten prints before things stop sticking so well and I need to swap out the glass.  I keep four ready to go with the hair spray applied (don't like spraying while in the machine - can't be good for the bearings or lubrication) and once I use the last plate I clean them all with alcohol, and reapply fresh hairspray.