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		<title><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Second broken heat bed]]></title>
		<link>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/9190/second-broken-heat-bed/</link>
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		<description><![CDATA[The most recent posts in Second broken heat bed.]]></description>
		<lastBuildDate>Wed, 14 Jan 2015 20:16:00 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Second broken heat bed]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/78945/#p78945</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Just got a chance to check it out and luckily the bed hadn&#039;t cracked. I am guessing the noise was from the warping prints coming loose (it was 2 objects totalling ~70% of the bed). Luckily the tape gave way before the glass. Sadly these prints are garbage (terrible warping as well as gaps in the surface layers). I think its finally time to flash some new firmware so I can use repetier. I may just go ahead and add a layer of glass as well for piece of mind.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (wellsje)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Jan 2015 20:16:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/78945/#p78945</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Second broken heat bed]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/78927/#p78927</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>If your glass is breaking then you are either running it too hot, which you should be running around 110 for ABS. Or the beds plastic substructure is warped and putting stress on the glass. I have had my second generation 1.0 for 8 months now and have had no issues with cracked, chipped, or broken glass. You could also do what others have done and use 1/4 inch float glass over the old glass as long as the heater is still working. The mounting screw have enough play to allow you to mount the thicker glass. You just have to compensate for the additional height in your slice start code.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (carl_m1968)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Jan 2015 18:41:19 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/78927/#p78927</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Second broken heat bed]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/78924/#p78924</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>So..this is the 2nd one? Are these HUGE prints? Or just sticking so hard they curl and break the glass?</p><p>I have experience with glass beds on some other printers and you r-e-a-l-l-y have to try and break it (short of hitting it with something I mean). </p><p>I have seen one break spontaneously but&nbsp; it was a full build plate print that was a very large arch type model...extensive warp pressure and it was just plain window glass (this was on a rep-rap)...same model on replacement glass printed fine.</p><p>Cheers</p><p>Jay</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (undrpsi)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Jan 2015 18:30:33 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/78924/#p78924</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Second broken heat bed]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/78912/#p78912</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>So I&#039;m in the middle of a 23hr print and I get a text while at work that my printer just made a cracking sound and there are small pieces of glass around the print bed. This will be my second broken heat bed, after the first I switched to kapton tape. What am I doing wrong? At this point I&#039;m thinking of switching to aluminum. Has anyone done this? Is it worth the effort?</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (wellsje)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Jan 2015 16:25:56 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/78912/#p78912</guid>
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