Neither require any maintenance, and just the other night, before packing up the Solidoodle, still with its ungainly stack of heatbeds and other odds and sods and 3 months of neglect in a corner of the lab, printed a perfect uncurled, unwarped, 100% infill 'pen clip' for a Adonit Jot Script stylus... using the also still attached and exposed to the elements for 3 months Polymax PLA - didn't even do a purge first. Worked a charm.

You can still make out the skirt on the bed (the aforementioned PEI sheet). All done with zero prep or other aids/chemicals and a far from ideal (lol! ) bed setup.

and the product, complete with some agressive overhangs and 100% infill:

and to confirm it was all warp free:

Apologies for the pics, i've packed the camera already....

I've been using the same Kapton tape for almost a year now, although I have a replacement standing by.

When needed, glue stick or blue painter's tape works well.

More than anything I think it all depends on the individual setup and situation.

+1.  I used to be a big glue stick fan because nothing else worked as well (ABS juice, hair spray, etc.) until I tweaked the first layer extrusion width on Slic3R.  At 200%, suddenly hair spray began to work too well (was pulling splinters of glass off instead of releasing the part cleanly).  Now I run at 150% which works great (but still occasionally pulls up some glass). Sometimes, I go to 200% for large prints and use alcohol as a release agent.  It's nice to have a knob that directly impacts stick so well.  For small parts I will go with the original 100% and the parts just pop off when the glass cools.  I now exclusively use hairspray (periodically clean with alcohol and reapply).

For example, some people use some type of perf-board type holed thing (name escapes me for the moment) and it has absurd adhesion because the plastic gets in the holes and plugs on the other side as it expands a little from the hole. That's like the extreme version of physical surface adhesion. maybe people just need deeper pockets on the sandblast treatment. I guess tehre's no way to undercut the sandblasting, though.

I guess the main reason probably I don't need to try more glass etching styles is because hairspray works really well and I don't need to respray for at least 10 prints.

I think there may be some chemical bonding going on with the hairspray at least.  A couple of people have tried sandblasted glass in the past and it didn't work.

+1 along with hand sanded glass and etched glass non of those users posted positive results.