That first pic looks familiar

Ha, I was wondering where that came from.  I've only owned one SD3 with that board on it and I sold it to a buddy. I never took any pictures of that one

I usually print at .1mm layer height when I'm going for quality.  The longest build time I ever ran was 38 hours; no problems.  I occasionally have build times over 24 hours (I'm presently making Christmas ornaments that takes 26 hours for each print).  Some of the Bergmann armored vehicles take 9-12 hours each, depending on size and complexity. That German Tiger tank I posted photos of, was a 9 hour print job.

How long do you have to run to overheat the stock printrboard?  24+ hours seems like a long time to me; I'm not sure I want to try for a marathon just to overheat the board.

I am thinking about putting my SD4 and PC on a UPS, so power fluctuations etc. this winter don't screw up my prints!

I have an old UPS needing new batterys (and a buddy that sells them) and I have thought the same thing since I use a laptop to run it and it has a few hrs backup if power fails so why not the Printer. most my prints are under 2hrs a few just under 9hrs but an SD2 is only 6x6 bed not 8x8 plus I like the board outside of print chamber plus cooling fans but havnt needed the fans yet. my 'Y' axis motor gets hotter on long or high speed detailed prints than the board but I have noticed movement pause b4 when using laptop for much as it takes away system requirements needed for printing complex items.

did SD3 hang MB box on back like some new printers?

How long do you have to run to overheat the stock printrboard?  24+ hours seems like a long time to me; I'm not sure I want to try for a marathon just to overheat the board.

I am thinking about putting my SD4 and PC on a UPS, so power fluctuations etc. this winter don't screw up my prints!

I've done a few minor upgrades to my SD4: some bearings and mounts on the Y-axis, added fans to the X-axis motor and nozzle.  Other than that, my SD4 is pretty much stock...and I feel that my print output is better than the vast majority of what I see on Thingiverse.  If most of that stuff were mine, I'd be too embarrassed to post photos of it! 

I personally prefer to have the motherboard enclosed.  It doesn't look like junk when people come over to see the SD4, and the wires and board are protected when I transport it.  (I take it on the road with OctoPi)

Just my $.02.

If you're set on going Solidoodle, I'd encourage getting a 3. It will make your life a lot easier when you inevitably do some upgrades, and it puts the motherboard on the back--a bigger deal than you might think. If you're looking outside SD, the scribbler is one, I've also seen very nice prints on Flashforge printers. There's a lot out there though. Your needs and skills strongly determine what printer you should get.

too bad SD discontinued SD2 and SD3 they where the back bones of current 3D printers.

I was asked to do a survey similar to this topic on 3D hubs last week for there trends page.

I couldnt really answer the question of what 3D printer I would buy or recommend for others ATM due to all the goofy things happening lately with many manufacturers and upgrades/mods needed versus the ones promised yet not delivered.

I do want something like what SD said their some day WB Apprentice was supposed to offer (but now it wont). I also like the Delta types for best use of space while not moving build platform (which I think the less print moves the better), I also like the new up and coming liquid style 3D printers for nano details at lower cost than the powder types (as my main interest is miniatures).

My SD2 with deluxe option (inclosure and bed heater) was in the lowest price range for 6x6x6 print area 2 years ago when I bought it.

but for now I am planning to mod my SD2 into a better version  (albeit slightly smaller build area) of the SD Apprentice I have dubbed my "Jr Apprentice" with duel E3Dv6 Bowden hot ends for most print materials including easy rinse off support material. then if customer demand increases hopefully add 1-2 other type printers for those, like a Delta for big prints or a liquid/powder laser type for more tiny detailed prints plus to handle more orders even if a printer is down for a repair etc.

because unlike Solidoodle, I plan ahead so my customers dont get left out in the cold once they pay for my services.

if you have one, why did you pick it over others?

Assembled
Heated bed
full enclosure
price ( I found a used one)
nice size build platform
a friend had one suggested it.
Felt at the time a good place to start.

I will probably end up building one. Nothing out there I feel I can afford.

IMHO if you are going to own a Sub $1500 3d printer a multimeter is a tool you need for the tool box. Sooner or later you will need it to troubleshoot something. 

Right now you can get one of these for $ 512

http://www.plasticscribbler.com/store/A … 3D_Printer
And for an additional  $73 upgraded to one board controls.  If you want to print ABS you will likely want to cover the sides and add a door. No fancy enclosure.
Tin

Leaving the backlash issue aside, if I personally had to buy another 3d printer again, I definitely wouldn't get a SD4 for myself.
There are 3 reasons:

"Actual cost". The things I had to buy later to replace or upgrade something in it to get it to work properly add a lot to the cost of the printer itself.
1) As an example, I had two stock SD4 power supplies die and had to get a replacement LED power supply.
2) I had to take out the gantry and epoxy (didn't have epoxy, had to buy) the rods in place because they weren't properly glued in place in the factory to begin with. I'm not the only guy who has had this happen to him.
3) Had to buy a multimeter and fix the VREFs on the motherboard because they weren't correct.
4) The stock heat pad is smaller than the aluminum bed, so utlizing the whole (not even the whole, like 17cm) of the bed without objects lifting and warping seems impossible.
And a lot of other things.
Basically poor quality on some parts of the printer and poor assembly in the factory which might cost you some money and time to fix yourself.

Second reason, the knowledge you need to do all of the above upgrades you can just use to get and assemble a 3d printer kit like Prusa and make an enclosure for it yourself. Still will spend less extra money.

And third reason is time, doing all I mentioned above you can just use to assemble a 3d printer kit and you will probably still have spent less time. Or just spend that time collecting more cash so you can afford an Ultimaker.

Again this is just my personal experience and opinion, all I can say is if I had more money I'd just get an Ultimaker which is a similar cartesian printer but with some quality, or get a Prusa i3 kit.

Some incorrect settings in the program's presets for SD4 and outdated wiki was also frustrating, though the helpful community has most of the answers.