does this board work with the duel extruder setups?

Yup

http://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments … ontroller/

There seems to be conflicting opinions on whether this is possible, even with a shielded cable.  Here is the ebay auction where you can get them:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311118251090

I just ordered them, I'll let you know how they work out.  Also, if your goal is printing without a PC, you can also hook up a tablet and print from that if you download the app.  I'm not sure why this is not used more often, it is great.  Discussed here:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/7226/gco … ur-tablet/

// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the Cartesian print volume.
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 205
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 200
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 402 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.

That's at line 486 for me.  50ish lines above this is the same code without the deltabot description.  Basically it was setting it where I had it correct the first time, then reaching this second one that was all zeros and setting it again. 

I believe I have my printer under control finally.  That extruder sounds quite smooth with 1/32.  I'm still going to add a gear reduction to it, I'm hoping with the bowden I don't run into torque issues.

N2ri,  it's not difficult at all, just cutting and slicing and matching all the connections back up.  Flashing the firmware is so much easier than the printrboard, just have it plugged in and hit upload in arduino.

I actually flashed it first, i believe it comes with some small code to move the axis' around a few millimeters at start up. I'm not positive on that, i just read it somewhere.  I had my own firmware on it before i plugged anything in.

I'm going to print my own design for a cover and get some wire to redo all the nasty. That is one thing to note, if you get an LCD and put it on the front you will have to splice almost all the existing wire to reach the board.

I'll try and get a couple test prints much later tonight.

Glad you got it working. I assume you're using an E3D with that nozzle fan--are you mounting it on the lawsy carriage? What mount are you using, if you don't mind sharing? I'm planning to design something to mount underneath the center X carriage, but it may already exist. My wiring is simply too fragile to try to plug in anything else right now.

const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

Those are my settings now, it's at line 330 for me, but I didn't get the SD firmware, I downloaded the lastest marlin off github.

I got the home to work fine, but then when I tried to move it away from home it wouldn't go anywhere.  Turns out the logic for the software endstops is flawed for this arrangement.

#define min_software_endstops false // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops false  // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 205
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 175
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

I disabled it for now with the false statements, and it works fine.  I might try later to change the numbers, because as it reads, in the home pos it won't go less than that, and in home its at 205x200 so i can't move it to anywhere.

So at the moment everything seems to be ok!  My gcode fans are working, the extruder and bed is heating properly, the extruder fan kicks on when it heats up.  I'm going to have to redo my PID tuning.  Ahh and my extruder is going backwards ha, I'll  have to fix that tonight.

When I get home from work I will hopefully be able to do some test prints, seems everything is in order now.

The reason nothing is responding to your home switches is because the RUMBA has pins for X-, Y-, and Z+. By default, Solidoodle has RH set up to only utilize X+, Y+, and Z-. So, since the switches are normally-closed, your RUMBA thinks it is at the minimum for X and Y, and at the maximum for Z (thus why Z will home). So you have a couple options to resolve this. You can either resolve it in the firmware, or you can use the hardware solution. I am not 100% certain, but I believe this can be fixed in the firmware by setting the X_MIN, Y_MIN and Z_MAX pins to -1 in pins.h (wardjr may be able to verify this). The easier solution that I know will work is to jump the - and S pins of X-, Y-, and Z+ with a female jumper. You can take the jumpers off the drivers you are not using; this is what I did.

You also have some freedom about how you set it up. I was lazy and kept the default configuration, but it might make more sense to set up RH to have 0,0 be the back right corner, and then set up your endstops appropriately. It's up to you, though.

If you want to be really fancy, get some optical endstops and find a way to install them

I was eager to answer this because I believe this is a rite of passage to owning a RUMBA. If your printer doesn't start bumping into stuff, you haven't suffered enough for it . I was waiting patiently for you to encounter this problem.

I see you also have sphagetti/hairball wiring. I still have not cleaned mine up. I'm waiting to get some plexiglass cut to move to a vertical feed so I have space to mount it on the back of my SD4.

One final note: Just set everything to 1/32 stepping now. There's no point in not utilizing it. Double up all your steps per mm. You don't want to try to do this after it's all set up and your wiring is a mess, trust me.

And while i'm dumping info, if you are unable to use the Firmware/EEPROM configuration setting in RH, you forgot to set SOLIDOODLE_VERSION to 3.

Do you guys have the software stop enabled in firmware? I don't think that's the problem, the only axis that homes is z. The x and y don't respond to a home command.

The endstops are behaving like they should, i checked that with m119.  It will register if i manually move the x or y into the stop, i even see it on the LCD and repetier, but i can still go past the stop.

I can see the home commands in repetier log.  The lcd home only does z as well.

Any ideas off hand? I ran out of time last night to dig more into that problem

I have ideas but jagowilson was all excited to be able to give you the answer.  Shoot me PM if you aren't willing to wait.

The endstops are behaving like they should, i checked that with m119.  It will register if i manually move the x or y into the stop, i even see it on the LCD and repetier, but i can still go past the stop.

I can see the home commands in repetier log.  The lcd home only does z as well.

Any ideas off hand? I ran out of time last night to dig more into that problem