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		<title><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Replacing the Z axis]]></title>
		<link>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/808/replacing-the-z-axis/</link>
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		<description><![CDATA[The most recent posts in Replacing the Z axis.]]></description>
		<lastBuildDate>Mon, 17 Dec 2012 16:49:59 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Replacing the Z axis]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/7343/#p7343</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Yes, you can just torque it off with two nuts and a pair of pliers.&nbsp; When you get the motor out, it should be pretty easy to do.&nbsp; The rest of the process should be the same once you have the new rod on there.&nbsp; I wouldn&#039;t worry too much about ruining the motor.&nbsp; Just get a good grip before torquing and you wont damage anything.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (jooshs)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Dec 2012 16:49:59 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/7343/#p7343</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Replacing the Z axis]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/7290/#p7290</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Good write up, Josh...</p><p>Just one issue.&nbsp; I ordered just the z-screw, so I don&#039;t have a motor to replace.&nbsp; How the heck do I pop the screw off the stepper so that I can get it into the machine?&nbsp; I assume that it&#039;s a matter of torquing the screw off, but I don&#039;t want to break the mount to the motor.&nbsp; I assume it&#039;s just glued onto the post...</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (cckens)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Dec 2012 21:07:32 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/7290/#p7290</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Replacing the Z axis]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/7259/#p7259</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Since I got one of the first printers, mine shipped with the original z axis coupling between the motor and lead screw.&nbsp; When Solidoodle changed the design, they were kind enough to send out the replacement to me, but I was hesitant to replace the original since it seemed to be working, albeit with some exaggerated z wobble on the high res prints.&nbsp; As these things usually go, the coupling failed/cracked when I was in the middle of a long run of prints for the RObot project that had to be done in a hurry.&nbsp; In addition, the thermistor wire failed, which I will post about replacing shortly.&nbsp; Anyways, replacing the z axis motor/leadscrew can be very easy; however, it is a good opportunity to do some maintenance on some parts you wouldn&#039;t normally think to get to.&nbsp; We also need to find a way to conquer the banding here soon, and this process is good to understand fully when attempting solutions to that problem.</p><p>The first step is to remove the usb cable so that you don&#039;t accidentally tear it out during the process...</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8482/8249153880_5b21a5fac1_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8482/8249153880_5b21a5fac1_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>Next, since I was going to be moving the printer around a good bit, I took the time to duct tape the power cord to the corner of the printer.&nbsp; This is a good way to add some strain relief and once it is done, you shouldn&#039;t have to worry too much about yanking out the power supply any more.&nbsp; </p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8197/8248088637_0067594ea0_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8197/8248088637_0067594ea0_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>Now, find the z motor connector and remove it from the board.&nbsp; It is located here:</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8482/8249155756_04f742ff78_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8482/8249155756_04f742ff78_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>Next, pull the wire through the hole in the bottom of the printer...</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8338/8248090789_70e877820b_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8338/8248090789_70e877820b_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>Now turn the printer so you can access the bottom and remove the 4 screws connecting the bottom motor.</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8066/8249159022_d62706cb77_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8066/8249159022_d62706cb77_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>Now you need to loosen the 4 hose clamps keeping the guide rods for the z axis in place.&nbsp; There are two on the top and two on the bottom.</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8342/8249160400_d7238d8457_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8342/8249160400_d7238d8457_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>Once all the clamps are loosened, you can remove the guide rods and the printer bed should be free to move around.</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8344/8248096219_b6853b4274_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8344/8248096219_b6853b4274_b.jpg" /></span></p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8210/8249168424_d38e989056_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8210/8249168424_d38e989056_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>Remove the leadscrew and motor by rotating it out of the nut for the bed.</p><p>Here are some comparisons of the two motors/leadscrews.&nbsp; The original assembly is clearly taller and not straight at all.&nbsp; From the side view with a straight background, you can see the shaft leans out quite a bit more than the new one.&nbsp; </p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8207/8248110419_0f40b37dab_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8207/8248110419_0f40b37dab_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>I do wish, however, they kept the new design taller.&nbsp; It allowed for a lot better system to control the slop in the x axis with the reinforced bearing Ben Trigg and Ian designed way back in the beginning.&nbsp; This piece will no longer fit since the new leadscrew only comes up to the cross rod for the y axis in the back instead of well clear of it.&nbsp; Here is a picture showing the coupling for the old and new systems.&nbsp; The old system was a printed abs coupling and it was prone to wear and tear.&nbsp; The other problem was that the shaft was not perfectly centered or perfectly vertical.</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8477/8249177764_7aca5a32b2_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8477/8249177764_7aca5a32b2_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>This is a good time to check that the net and the nut hugger? are bolted in tight.&nbsp; As an aside, John from Solidoodle has mentioned that they are soon going to come out with a complete schematic that actually names everything.&nbsp; It will be quite a relief since it seems every part has 30 names now.&nbsp; Anyways, back to the nuthugger.&nbsp; Mine was loose to the point you could actually hear the nut shaking around on the inside.&nbsp; I tightened it down very firmly, but was careful not to go so tight that the wood might crack.&nbsp; This should help with the play in the z axis and possibly a little in the x axis.</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8067/8249178876_c3e534914f_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8067/8249178876_c3e534914f_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>This is also a good time to go ahead and lube everything up.&nbsp; I actually cleaned everything very thoroughly and then lubed.&nbsp; I use this stuff since it is cheap and easy to get at my local hardware store.</p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XB … 07_s00_i00</a></p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8478/8249179870_2dee50c78f_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8478/8249179870_2dee50c78f_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>The rest of the process is pretty much everything in reverse order.&nbsp; There are a couple of things to be careful about when reversing the process.&nbsp; I threaded the leadscrew in about 1/2 way before reassembling.&nbsp; Then I put in the guide rods and just lightly tightened the hose clamps so they would not slide around while reattaching the motor.&nbsp; When putting the motor in, make sure your wires are coming out towards the front.&nbsp; Also make sure that you tighten each screw just a little bit before completely securing all of them, other wise you may end up with a bent screw.</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8348/8248114629_d3921a3bbd_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8348/8248114629_d3921a3bbd_b.jpg" /></span></p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8342/8249182488_9d24fbd3ea_b.jpg" alt="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8342/8249182488_9d24fbd3ea_b.jpg" /></span></p><p>That should about do it.&nbsp; One last thing, it is also a good time to check the stepper drivers since you replaced the motor.&nbsp; It shouldn&#039;t change anything, but it is still a good time to do it.&nbsp; The tutorial can be found here:</p><p><a href="http://www.solidoodle.com/how-to-2/troubleshooting/">http://www.solidoodle.com/how-to-2/troubleshooting/</a></p><p>Any other suggestions are great.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (jooshs)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Dec 2012 15:31:29 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/7259/#p7259</guid>
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