One alternative I haven't seen anyone mention is elmer's glue sticks--the purple ones. Sticks great, but your first layer will have to be sanded afterwards because I've found the glue stops it from being perfectly smooth. I use this method if I'm printing something large that will have a lot of free-standing edges, which are the number one cause of warping in my experience. They act like heat sink fins and cool the bottom layer really quick. When I'm up and running I need to print a fan shroud to get some filament cooling going on. With that and my E3D on the way, I'm going to have a crazy amount of fans on that 12V rail.

I've had prints still not want to come off after an extended period. Freezer = instant removal. Just let the glass get to room temp first, and put down a few paper towels with the glass to keep away direct contact with the freezer floor. If you ever have to use that scraper that came with the printer, you're doing it wrong IMO.

So do I need to clean the glass and spray again for every print?

I have hd my printer about 10 weeks have yet to clean the glass and have sprayed the glass about 4 times.
but I expect if you do lots of prits you may need to fresen up the surface more oftem.

Tin

Thanks. By my initial tests the generic hairspray I got made the print stick very strongly to the glass bed.

So do I need to clean the glass and spray again for every print?

Nah, the more goop that builds up, the better it works. I haven't cleaned my glass bed in months. For very large parts, I find the hairspray isn't enough to prevent the part from curling up. What always works for me is printing the first layer slowly with a wide brim, and while the brim is going down, paint some "secret sauce" on the corners and maybe a few other spots if it is really large (the slow printing lets you get a dauber or brush in and out without being hit by the print head :-).

The secret sauce formula is basically 50/50 acetone and MEK with a little ABS dissolved in it.

Of course, this sticks really really well. I usually have to let the bed cool off for a long time before I can get the part off. (And I don't clean off the residue left from the secret sauce either).

So do I need to clean the glass and spray again for every print?

What were you answering by suggesting to do dusting?

You don't need a hole lot of spray on the glass, just enough to give it a light coating.

I got a 1/8 thick glass cut to a 8x8 inch piece.

I'm printing with ABS. Do I need to use a hairspray or some other binder if I'm printing in ABS? Solidoodle sells glass plates on their site but they do nit mention anything.

We dont have Aquanet in the non USA.
Will other hairsprays work? That's why i was asking what chemical was doing the trick.
The hairspray I got contains

Also, how much hairspray do you spray on the glass?
And do you do it before every print?
Do you need to clean the glass before a new print?

A piece of borosilicate glass would be more heat shock resistant McMaster Car 847K18  8 x 8  x 1/4   $24.62

I use the hair spray for printing PLA. do not know what chemical but aqua net seems to be the brand of choice.
Tin

1) How thick should the glass be? What is the risk of glass cracking from the temperature?

2) Does the filament stick to the glass bed as it sticks to the kapton on the aluminum plate right now?
Or do I need to cover the glass with something to make it stick?

3) If yes, what kind of chemical is doing the magic? So I'll check if the hairspray or whatever I'm getting has it or not.

Thanks.