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		<title><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — PCB bed]]></title>
		<link>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/750/pcb-bed/</link>
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		<description><![CDATA[The most recent posts in PCB bed.]]></description>
		<lastBuildDate>Tue, 11 Dec 2012 06:08:51 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: PCB bed]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/6856/#p6856</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>I appreciate the feedback.&nbsp; I read through all the info online, but you make some good points.&nbsp; In the end I pulled the makerbot 2&#039;s heated bed and modified it to have the same 3 leveling screws at the solidoodle.&nbsp; Also modified the dimensions.</p><p>I&#039;ve used Kicad in the past, but not nearly as much as others.&nbsp; I use eagle when it&#039;s simple.&nbsp; This board exceeds the limits of most of eagle&#039;s normal pricing.&nbsp; I ended up editing it with Altium.&nbsp; Not the easiest to use, but highly capable.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (heychris)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Dec 2012 06:08:51 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/6856/#p6856</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Re: PCB bed]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/6770/#p6770</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>1) if you use Kicad (I like it, switched after 10 hrs of eagle, and was much further along in the program after 10 hrs of Kicad), I think there are some PCB-heater scripts.&nbsp; With pcb heaters you need some good tolerance on the copper/oz for calculating the expected resistance, or just accept whatever it ends up being (if you&#039;re purchasing from a lower cost place and/or china.)</p><p>2) I think there&#039;s a reprap wiki on this. <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed">http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed</a></p><p>3) Make sure to think about expansion. For instance, you might eventually want a slightly wider build plate, since the carriage can move a couple mm in the y and several in the x.&nbsp; &nbsp;Also, it might be helpful to include the holes for the leveling screw in your design. </p><p>4) I&#039;m not sure you will get accurate coordinates by using repetier.&nbsp; You would probably be better served to check with calipers. It depends on how well you have set your y-home and y-max cordinates.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (Tomek)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Dec 2012 03:58:29 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/6770/#p6770</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[PCB bed]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/6761/#p6761</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>All,</p><p>I really like the sound of the silicone heating element, but the cost/power sitution is a bit of a bother.&nbsp; &nbsp;I threw this together last night to send up to my pcb guy.&nbsp; I&#039;m curious if anyone else has gone this route.&nbsp; He knew exactly what I was talking about and has done a few 3d printer bed heaters.&nbsp; It&#039;s always nice to have him give me the requirements before I have the chance to tell him.</p><p>I found the bolt holes on the stock bed by moving the print head in Repetier.&nbsp; It gives you coordinates, which seems like it should be good enough.&nbsp; Do these coordinates sound right?</p><p>1. 75.2, 142<br />2. 9.8, 28.20<br />3. 9.8, 122.90</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (heychris)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Dec 2012 01:06:59 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/6761/#p6761</guid>
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