SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Glass and Glue

Re: Glass and Glue

null@example.com (wpmarsh) — Sun, 07 Sep 2014 03:11:17 +0000

Think I might have answered my own question(s). Am now getting grand results using rafts.

Still, how do I upload an STL?

Re: Glass and Glue

null@example.com (eflyguy) — Sun, 07 Sep 2014 02:34:03 +0000

I've printed some long, narrow parts with no issues since switching to glass and glue. Upload the STL of what you're trying to print?

Re: Glass and Glue

null@example.com (wpmarsh) — Sun, 07 Sep 2014 00:32:46 +0000

Sooo... I'm now getting inconsistent results. Smaller parts in the center of the bed seem to do OK with glue and a 5mm brim (single layer). Larger parts seem to start out OK, but after a few layers, begin to lift (fairly consistently on the left side of the bed). I've tried designing in additional structural support which has helped for some parts, but not for each printing of same. Am trying a raft (for the 1st time) as I am writing this post, but am wondering how easily I will be able to separate the raft from the part...

I seem to have temps and feed rate reasonably well adjusted, and let the bed get well heat-soaked before printing, but that pesky corner-lifting issue about 3 layers into the print is bugging me.

Should I be making the brim 3 layers high instead of one?

Re: Glass and Glue

null@example.com (Don9mm) — Sat, 30 Aug 2014 05:18:18 +0000

With a glass bed, the glue comes off fairly easy with a single edge, utility type razor blade. Just run the blade over the glass at a shallow angle on a cold bed, and the glue scrapes off without too much trouble. Just brush off the glue flakes and reapply the glue. There isn't much need for solvents and cleaners. If anything, the freshly scraped glass seems to take a new coat of glue as good or better than doing a lot of wiping and washing. One thing I've found, though, is the glue goes down a LOT better on cold glass than it does on hot/warm glass.

Re: Glass and Glue

null@example.com (exineport) — Sat, 30 Aug 2014 04:09:26 +0000

Just a thin coat for me and after brushing it down with a nice paintbrush and lots of water, it will last three-four prints after the initial spread, IMHO. Chunks kind of get in the way of a nice bottom after that.

Re: Glass and Glue

null@example.com (eflyguy) — Fri, 29 Aug 2014 21:06:21 +0000

When I say damp, I mean wet.. I pretty much can see the goo I'm spreading around, but when the water evaporates, it's virtually invisible. I run my fingers over the target location to make sure there aren't any bumps that could mess up the print.

Keep in mind I'm new here and this is what I've found is working for me.

Re: Glass and Glue

null@example.com (wpmarsh) — Tue, 26 Aug 2014 04:57:14 +0000

I guess that depends on how much glue you apply in the 1st place. I do a cross-coat (like painting). For a long, flat, relatively narrow piece, I find that starting 'fresh' each time works well for me. I have done a few bulkier pieces that 'rejuvenating' the glue worked OK with.

Still trying to find my 'ideal' groove, and getting closer each day.

Re: Glass and Glue

null@example.com (eflyguy) — Tue, 26 Aug 2014 03:10:32 +0000

I don't clean after printing. After scraping the ABS remnants, I use damp paper towels to wipe the bed down, which re-distributes the glue. Seems to be pretty reliable..

Glass and Glue

null@example.com (wpmarsh) — Tue, 26 Aug 2014 02:39:52 +0000

Hi All,

While I am a n00b, and am still tweaking my temps and feed-rates to get the resolution I crave, I have followed with great interest the ongoing tribulations of 'non-stick issues'.

I personally like the glass overlay. Cost less than $5 USD at my local hardware store, and Elmer's Purple Glue stick is the BOMB!

Here's the rub (in my opinion): There CAN BE too much of a good thing, and cleanliness isn't really a hardship. Elmer's is a WATER-SOLUBLE adhesive. After printing, a very moist sponge will easily clean off whatever glue remains, and since it turns purple once re-moistened, it's easy to see if you've cleaned your glass enough. Adding more glue on top of what remained from the previous print job will ruin your finely-tuned tolerances.

While a quick wipe with acetone (nail polish remover) will certainly clean the glass after removing the glue, so will any ammonia-based commercial window cleaner, as will simple isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.

I personally prefer the isopropyl alcohol. It's far less expensive than acetone, and is non-carcinogenic. I used it as the final wipe before painting aircraft with polyurethane paint to good effect...