SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — still not there yet

Re: still not there yet

null@example.com (adamp) — Thu, 06 Dec 2012 09:57:13 +0000

Yes I printed the hinges from thingiverse including the door knob, just need a door catch to keep it closed now. Maybe a magnet will do the trick. Well I am very happy today as I left the printer re-print the part that I posted first overnight and the results are pretty good. The temperature inside the case was from 36-42c during the print which Im guessing could be improved if I cover up all the holes etc. Here is the comparison...

Re: still not there yet

null@example.com (IanJohnson) — Thu, 06 Dec 2012 03:18:25 +0000

Are those hinges printed?

Re: still not there yet

null@example.com (MeshMoth) — Thu, 06 Dec 2012 02:20:56 +0000

Sweet case!

elmoret wrote:

That will certainly help! However, the smaller the case, the warmer the environment will be. I attached acrylic directly to the steel frame.

Can you post a pic? I like how adamp has clearance to reach in through the top as well.

Re: still not there yet

null@example.com (elmoret) — Wed, 05 Dec 2012 22:45:19 +0000

That will certainly help! However, the smaller the case, the warmer the environment will be. I attached acrylic directly to the steel frame.

Re: still not there yet

null@example.com (adamp) — Wed, 05 Dec 2012 22:32:52 +0000

thanks for your tips, I have now built a case. For some reason i don't have the correct nut to install the z-wobble thingy just yet. My heater will only reach 96c even though its set to 110c. I quite like the look of it with a case now. I will leave a logger in there to find out what the average temperature is during printing. I hope this sorts the problem out.

Re: still not there yet

null@example.com (IanJohnson) — Tue, 04 Dec 2012 23:41:57 +0000

The air inside a closed Soidoodle typically gets into the mid 40s celsius which is often enough. I can get it to 65 with a heater, though there is some debate about whether you should allow the ambient to pass 50 due to the motors. Even slapping some cardboard on all sides should give you some improvement.

Re: still not there yet

null@example.com (elmoret) — Tue, 04 Dec 2012 22:57:15 +0000

Just putting sides, front, and a top on the SD should fix most of that.

Run the bed as hot as you can, maybe 110C if you can get there. The more heat you can get into the build environment, the better.

Re: still not there yet

null@example.com (cckens) — Tue, 04 Dec 2012 22:38:29 +0000

Not sure about temps, but posts have shown a relative 70C should be enough.

As for the photos, I'm seeing a little better. They're fine resolution-wise and show enough detail.

Is this the y-axis cable guard? I think that's what I'm looking at. I mentioned some banding earlier and you can see it a little clearer in these images. This may be backlash. Try this:

http://wiki.solidoodle.com/z-axis-anti-backlash

and see if it helps. Your printer should be fine to print these parts. Mine was and my z-axis is more screwed up that your (judging from your photos).

Acetone may save the part, but you'd have to heat the plastic up a little to get flexible enough to press it down. I'd recommend a hairdryer as this would allow you to point weld with the acetone.

Re: still not there yet

null@example.com (adamp) — Tue, 04 Dec 2012 21:53:45 +0000

Ahh i see, well i don't have a case but im sure I can make one. Im hoping I can save this part with some acetone. I wonder what the optimal ambient air temperature is then, I work for a company that installs wireless temperature and control sensors so i may be able to scrounge some parts to keep the enclosure at a steady set temperature. I have tried my best to get detailed pictures of the lower layers but my camera isnt that good.

Re: still not there yet

null@example.com (cckens) — Tue, 04 Dec 2012 21:34:12 +0000

Ah, part curl. Looks like there's underheating of the space and that's cooling the layers too fast causing the edges to curl up. If you have a case, use it. If you don't and you have a way to close it, do so. The ambient air is your enemy on the larger prints like this. I have trouble with even small prints (with long stems like the filament valve holder) that curl up on the ends.

Acrylic and magnets can close off your case without being permanent. I'm also going to be adding some weather-stripping to close off any draft points. I would hate to think that I spent that long on a print only to be done in by this effect.

Otherwise, your print looks good on the lower layers. Some banding, but otherwise kinda clean. If you can get a more detail shot of the lower layers we can troubleshoot calibration further.

still not there yet

null@example.com (adamp) — Tue, 04 Dec 2012 21:28:40 +0000

ok so I have finally got my printer calibrated (i think) I have calibrated the extruder so the right amount of plastic is coming out, I have my bed level, I have my z skrew endstop set correctly, I have now been able to upgrade to the latest firmware after having to burn a new boot loader to my atmega644p which wasn't fun. Im pretty much there, all I need to do now is continue dailing in my settings etc. I started a large print out this morning and when I got back after work I noticed that my part is cracked. I dont want to go changing all sorts of setting to try and fix it until I had asked here seems it has probably happened to someone else. Anyway if someone knows what this is caused by can you help. Thanks