Make sure you keep an eye on temps with your heater, remember if it gets too hot in there (over 60C maybe) the motors and plastic parts may get into trouble. I don't want to be responsible for melting your printer!!

thanks for the reply.
I'm gonna have to go over your feedback again and try them, but to quickly give a reply now.

I am waiting for my heater to come in, should be here tomorrow. (thank you amazon prime)
I have always been too lazy to try the wall thickness test and calibration, however I did calibrate extrusion (mm extruded vs. should've extruded, but will do again.)
My mistake was not realizing that PLA and ABS would both yield different values for the calibration.

Z-backlash, getting a dial asap.

Thanks for your design tips as well, funny, out of despair, I ended up printing 4 sides and the base, now gotta
figure out how to glue them. (heard about ABS glue, basically acetone and small ABS plastic pieces!)

will revive this post once I get some testing/trials done.

Thanks and if you or anyone in the community have more feedback, please don't hesitate.

Much appreciated.

Fadi

Process tips:
* Reduce layer height: try 0.3mm, or even 0.2mm instead of 0.4mm. this will improve interlayer adhesion.
* Increase ABS extrusion temp: 210 is typically a bit low for ABS in an E3D, try 230. This will improve interlayer adhesion.
* You might want to calibrate the steps-per-mm in the extruder with the PLA
* Wall thickness calibration will be handy either way - looks like in the PLA you're definitely overextruding, but in the ABS it's hard to tell. Lawsy carriage print in black looks a bit fat, but there's something else going on in the base of your white box that I'm not sure I have a clear answer to just yet.
* For ABS, ambient temps as high as you can get; aim for 50-55C. Even consider going as far as adding a heater to the enclosure. This will reduce the thermal forces, which is the root cause of both warping and layer splits!
* Check how much z backlash you have. If you can get a dial gauge and measure it, that would be ideal, but you can usually work it out by printing a calibration pyramid (the 5mm cube pyramid thing, must be on thingiverse somewhere), and measuring the difference between the height of the bottom layer and the subsequent layers - and then rather than get all mechanical and install crazy ballscrews, just make sure you have the community firmware installed and use M99 to compensate. This will help get the first few layers right (I can see evidence of some catchup happening in the lawsy carriage, but this could also be due to just overextrusion).

Design tips:
* Consider rounding the corners of the box in the design - this can reduce the propensity to lift
* Split the box in the middle rather than at the top so it's two halves bolting together, rather than a box and a lid. This way both parts share the pain
* If you can use PLA, use PLA. Be wary of anything heat-generating, as PLA has the lower melting & glass transition points.
* As a last ditch, consider splitting the box into individual walls and floor with pins to align the joints, and then glue the thing together. Perhaps it's a bit audacious. This will also help you get neater cutouts etc. as they would be printed horizontal.

I have spent the last couple of weeks literally on this single model of an enclosure that I built using TinkerCard.co
The attached photos show ABS (in white-ish yellow) and PLA in white and those are the best two results that I got out of i'd guesstimate in the 20-ish prints that I have done.

Some mistakes where on me, like not calibrating the extruder after changes from ABS to PLA, but other than that, I have ran the same settings on different parts and got good results. (see black part which is Lawsy's alternative Carriage)

I got plexiglass installed (not 100% insulation yet, but should retain a lot of the heat inside for ABS and I also recently finished my auto-level mod and mount which has been great in getting good results as well.
(Will post link here and thingiverse once I finalize everything)

So any feedback or suggestions on how to print this right?
What is it?  CNC controller box for the electronics/steppers...etc.

Printer?
Solidoodle 3, E3D hotend with Lawsy's MK5 mount, added enclosure, Z-antibacklash nut and sprint mod, custom auto-level probe

Print Settings?
ABS: 0.4mm, 210c, standard slicer settings plus 5 mm brim and 2 shell layers not 8
PLA: 0.4mm, 205c, standard slicer settings plus 5 mm brim and 2 shell layers not 8

Thanks

F.K