Also, I haven't been able to get it to print without warping. I managed to get it to stick to the bed using superglue on blue tape, but it just ended up pulling up the tape. I tried superglue on glass, and it didn't stick at all. I tried higher strength adhesive green tape, and it still pulled up the tape. I'm going to give garolite one last try, but I'm about to give up on this particular batch of PC...

I initially had problems getting it to stick. I tried it on PET tape, blue tape, with and without raft, and they all lifted up after just a few layers. However, on suggestion here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate, i put down some superglue over the blue tape, and it's looking pretty good. I'm printing at 270 C, 120 C bed right now. I will take pictures once this print is finished!

Also, I am jealous that $12 gets you a single new barrel, machined and all.

The recycled ABS/PC pellets are irregularly shaped and a good portion of them are ~10mm on one side, which also added to the increased pressure. So it is no mystery to me that I tore it apart. When the barrel twisted, i took it down the block to a machine shop. They cut it apart, checked the auger (not bent!), and made me a new barrel with a slightly smaller opening for the hopper to give it a little more strength. So two hours and $12USD later I was up and running again.

If the shaft collar isn't up against the beginning of the auger flutes, it relies on the set screw to hold it in place.  If that is the case, the auger can get pushed hard enough to slide through the shaft collar and either try to push the motor out the back or push the barrel out the front.  I struggled with the Randolph case trying to destroy itself in that manner until I got everything positioned just right.

v1.4/1.5 uses full clamping shaft collars, no more set screws. Actually the shaft collar is undersized slightly so it grips even harder. If one of those is sliding then it either wasn't tightened or I'd guess thrust loads are exceeding 300lbs.

What you mean mean "pushed the auger out through the back"? That's a 1/4" steel flange...

Downside is, since I have to let extrude off a table, the filament is very thin, 1.35mm or so. However, it remains very glassy. I will print with it very soon and see how it goes! Also, the filament is very very stiff, to the point that my winder is having trouble winding it. It makes a rather odd crackling noise as it winds. I might have to jack up the voltage on the winder a bit...

Tim, I don't actually have a real filastruder -- I built mine back when the filastruder still had a 6 week lead time and I was impatient. It's very close to your design, except I used a pair of leftover cartridge heaters held against the coupling with a metal zip tie. This design is much less elegant, but it does have plenty of power. It doesn't need any additional insulation or voltage to hit 260 C. I might try cooling the barrel with a fan though.

Running horizontal, did you try moving the filament guide closer to the nozzle, and possibly cutting off an inch or so of the base? That should make ramen less likely.