As i thought i had to move  the e3d 4mm in Y and lost about 15mm in Z-hight.
The Alu-Holder was replaced with a new one (stl follows after the long weekend).

With an Adapterplate one could move the whole Extruder in Z, but in my opinion, that would move it to near do the roof and could probably hinder the filament.

The parts i needed are:
1 new Alu Holder with 1 M5 Screw
1 Washer 4mm
1 Z-Adapter for the Z-Reference (or a 15mm longer screw)
3 M3*30mm Screws (the original ones are to short)

For now i removed the fan on the left side and have finally 200mm in X.

But if necessary i could put it back on.

wardjr wrote:

So looking at your pictures... I can't see any reason that you couldn't use an MK-5 to hold an E3D.  It would be nice to have a picture of it disassembled so I can see the bolts.

That's only gonna happen after i took it apart to install a E3D.

I'm also thinking about to modify or build a new Holder(Alu) to fit the E3D.

The only critical thing seems to be the hight. The E3D seems to be longer.
But if i move the hot-end in Y so that i can also move it in Z, it could fit.

That's a great idea you should look at the design of the MK-5 for inspiration.  It is a simple and effective design and would be a great place to start.  You definitely lose some height with the E3D but you could gain a little back by moving it closer to the drive pulley.  Before you invest a bunch of time and money into an aluminum mount you should just print one up until you refine your design.  This may also be the perfect time to look into linear bearings.

So looking at your pictures... I can't see any reason that you couldn't use an MK-5 to hold an E3D.  It would be nice to have a picture of it disassembled so I can see the bolts.

That's only gonna happen after i took it apart to install a E3D.

I'm also thinking about to modify or build a new Holder(Alu) to fit the E3D.

The only critical thing seems to be the hight. The E3D seems to be longer.
But if i move the hot-end in Y so that i can also move it in Z, it could fit.

To use an e3d hot end with the new extruder, you will have to turn down the top of the e3d to fit the new extruder.

At that point wouldn't it be easier to switch to an MK-5 or the like?  Any chance you have a nice photo of one or preferably of the extruder mount itself?

Pictures will follow tomorrow.

There's nothing else going on,
At the Moment i'm printing ABS at 220°C and it is working.
But there are other special filaments out there which ask for a higher temp.

I'm sure you know how that is.
You don't really need something, but you'd like to know, if it's possible.

That means i'll keep looking for a replacement hot end that will survive higher temp.

Are you sure the 'peek' at the new hot end on the SD4 will melt at a temperature over 230?

Why would SD use a new hot end which such a limitation if they know that there is a use for higher temps?

Because the SD is designed to print PLA or ABS.  The hot end they use is fine for those filaments.  It is not an all metal hot end and can not handle temps higher than what they have it set for.  If you want to move to different filaments then you will need an all metal hot end such as the E3D.  It would be really nice if you posted a close up picture of your hot end.  I believe SD switched to a non standard groove mount but I couldn't tell you when.  With a good picture I can tell you if an E3D would work and if not advise what other changes would have to be made.

I'm sure you know how that is.
You don't really need something, but you'd like to know, if it's possible.

That means i'll keep looking for a replacement hot end that will survive higher temp.

Are you sure the 'peek' at the new hot end on the SD4 will melt at a temperature over 230?

Why would SD use a new hot end which such a limitation if they know that there is a use for higher temps?

I checked the temperature and it is quite precise.
Set to 220 measured between 220 to 224.

When i tried to print with 225° it started ok but after 1 hour it probably overshot and and the hot end was switched off.

Which resulted in printing 'air' since all the Axes where still moving.

To exchange it with an E3D wouldn't be a problem, but can the original firmware handle it?

Where did you measure and with what?

Your filament should work just fine at our default temperatures.