ryan-mm85 wrote:

you guys are awesome thankyou,
I got it working great,
now........

all I need to do is learn how to install a E3D hot end,
and fix my zscrew, and install a fan on my E3D...
any ideas ?

Z-screw what's your issue with that?

New Hot end is easy... Print an MK-5 from thingiverse or buy one for $5 from Filastruder when you order your E3D.
http://www.filastruder.com/
Then read up on flashing firmware to that Printerboard as that is the hard part and there are many conflicting instructions out there.  It is one of the best upgrades you can make to your printer.

z-crew has some wobble . I was thinking a thread less ballscrew as an upgrade?, not sure what the best upgrade is for a new z-screw.

**on the flashing the firmware, what do you mean? will it get rid of my RH with slic3r?

if there is so much "conflicting" info how is one suppose to know what info is correct?

you guys are awesome thankyou,
I got it working great,
now........

all I need to do is learn how to install a E3D hot end,
and fix my zscrew, and install a fan on my E3D...
any ideas ?

Z-screw what's your issue with that?

New Hot end is easy... Print an MK-5 from thingiverse or buy one for $5 from Filastruder when you order your E3D.
http://www.filastruder.com/
Then read up on flashing firmware to that Printerboard as that is the hard part and there are many conflicting instructions out there.  It is one of the best upgrades you can make to your printer.

all I need to do is learn how to install a E3D hot end,
and fix my zscrew, and install a fan on my E3D...
any ideas ?

I remember that you indicated this is a Solidoodle 3. There is a good likelihood that your nozzle is .40mm, not .35mm, and that the .42 wall thickness is not a correct target value. Solidoodle changed that value in production at some point. That would explain the relatively low extrusion multiplier that you have. If this is the case, you are laying down almost cylindrical threads, which have no reason to adhere to each other. There needs to be a sqwished cylindrical cross section.

I would try .42*.40/.35 = .48 as the target value. I don't know if I have ever seen an official target value published, but I haven't been paying attention, as I have a .35mm nozzle. Perhaps someone who knows can say what the correct calibration target is.

ryan-mm85 wrote:

MolecularConcept wrote:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/5722/add … to-my-sd4/  thats a decent thread on how theG code fan install if you have the newer printrboard clone

this is the fan im using till i do my lawsy extruder upgrade
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38129

what is the "newer printrboard clone"?

If you got your printer around the time you registered on the forum then it is the control board you have on your printer.

oh ok thankyou,

so im not curling as bad,
come to find out when I updated slicer I forgot to calibrate.

so I calibrated using the box method of making a .3mm thick box.
im getting delamination on layers.
I did the thickness measurement and it put me from 1 to a .73 and im getting a consistand .42 mm thickness
but im still separating.
should I just increase my number from .73 on up till I stop getting separation?

**** print is sticking to the bed well with the hairspray.
**** im having some curling issues still at 210* on the extruder and 95* on the bed

mind you I have the stock extruder.

I don't know anything about these different extruding heads you guys keep referring to.

If you are referring to the hot-end and things like all metal hot-ends such as the E3D.  Then you need to consider looking into upgrading.  If you are talking about different extruders you would be talking about things such as the Bulldog XL geared extruder.  A good upgrade but a little pricey and there are many cheaper and more worthy upgrades that can be done first.

MolecularConcept wrote:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/5722/add … to-my-sd4/  thats a decent thread on how theG code fan install if you have the newer printrboard clone

this is the fan im using till i do my lawsy extruder upgrade
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38129

what is the "newer printrboard clone"?

If you got your printer around the time you registered on the forum then it is the control board you have on your printer.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/5722/add … to-my-sd4/  thats a decent thread on how theG code fan install if you have the newer printrboard clone

this is the fan im using till i do my lawsy extruder upgrade
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38129

what is the "newer printrboard clone"?

so I calibrated using the box method of making a .3mm thick box.
im getting delamination on layers.
I did the thickness measurement and it put me from 1 to a .73 and im getting a consistand .42 mm thickness
but im still separating.
should I just increase my number from .73 on up till I stop getting separation?

**** print is sticking to the bed well with the hairspray.
**** im having some curling issues still at 210* on the extruder and 95* on the bed

mind you I have the stock extruder.

I don't know anything about these different extruding heads you guys keep referring to.

this is the fan im using till i do my lawsy extruder upgrade
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38129

I used that mount for a good while. Basic and easy. Great for beginners.
I suggest the MK5 to everybody. The acrylic extruder was the worst design since the square wheel.

Not at all. I personally see it as being extreme...especially for how small of a print you were doing.
I would also recommend using a bit more acetone in your mix. The slurry/ABS/secret sauce should be applied in thin coats...I finally saw the second video and you are certainly using too much.

If you are using glass, the best thing is to find a hairspray that works for you. Some guys prefer Aquanet, some Suave. But it would be less of a waste of filament and acetone for something that could be easily fixed with patient experimentation.

this is the fan im using till i do my lawsy extruder upgrade
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38129

I support glass + hairspray for the bed. This is not your problem, but if you try it and it works I think you will be happier with the cleanliness. Glass/mirror can be gotten for $4 from any craft store (Michaels, JoAnns). Aquanet or Suave Max Hold. Its cheap enough to try. Just remember that the reason why it works is because your adding thermal mass. This means when you heat your bed, you have to give it an extra 10 minutes to soak into the glass since the thermisotr is underneath the aluminum, not measuring the surface of the glass.

For your problem, the second video is much better. You have two problems. Curling and delamination. There are alot of holes in the sides of your print. This makes me believe you have extrusion factor problems. You should make sure your extrusion is calibrated and dialed in. Check the wikis for steps/mm calibration, and also the single-wall calibration. I dont think your laying down enough plastic.

You also mentioned that things got worse with a new roll. That always happens. I mentioned earlier, even a change in color will require a new calibration of your extrusion factor. And temperature will change also as the new colorant will effect the temperature required to extrude correctly.

And lastly, a fan is the number one solution to combat overhang curling.

got it, this time I didn't calibrate,
I normally do, but this time I measured the filament thickness and just input it and then I put everything at 0 for default and let RH do its thing,
**I will recalibrate

what fan mod should I print?
where do I find the how to on how to wire the new fan?

If you are using a glue, it obviously isn't working, so you can stop using it.
Have you measured your filament then properly changed it in RH? I only ask because the first video seems like it had a bunch of holes in the top layers.
While a fan MIGHT work, it seems more that you are not getting proper bonding on the first layer. The first layer is critical for the rest of the print. As suggested all over Soliforum, toss on a glass or mirror bed. You can choose to keep the Kapton on, but the adhesive you are using may be too dense to remove, thus forcing you to rip the tape off (what I had to do). I slapped a mirror on, sprayed with hairspray (krazy glue on problematic prints-which is easily cleaned off), and now rarely have issues with lifting.
Another option is the heat. I never had to print more than 205/95. The adhesive could be blocking some of the heat transfer. I saw on one forum a guy used JB Weld. (wtf?) Needless to say, it did not end well. And the adhesive you are using seems to be bubbling due to heat. If this is the case, it is the wrong application for it.

Clean the bed off, wipe it down thoroughly with acetone, and start fresh. Some people can print perfectly on kapton. If you are like me and cannot...but a glass bed and you will never look back.

Hope this helps.

im using a glass bed. lol
the stuff im using for glue is ABS/acetone wash.... is that wrong now?

For your problem, the second video is much better. You have two problems. Curling and delamination. There are alot of holes in the sides of your print. This makes me believe you have extrusion factor problems. You should make sure your extrusion is calibrated and dialed in. Check the wikis for steps/mm calibration, and also the single-wall calibration. I dont think your laying down enough plastic.

You also mentioned that things got worse with a new roll. That always happens. I mentioned earlier, even a change in color will require a new calibration of your extrusion factor. And temperature will change also as the new colorant will effect the temperature required to extrude correctly.

And lastly, a fan is the number one solution to combat overhang curling.