Ok so with that belt removed how does the Y-axis move?  Nice and smooth?
I like to loosen the set screw for the right drive pulley for the Y-movement.  Then slide the carriage by hand  back and forth until it feels like the right side is resting in a nice neutral position then tighten the set screw.  This will align the two sides and eliminate another source of binding.
Next is more of a question you should already have the answer to.  Is it over extruding?  Meaning when you print, is the nozzle constantly dragging on the previous layer even just areas of the previous layer?  If it is then let's address that before you move to the next step.
Time to adjust your VREF's.  Something is causing that axis to skip.  This can be caused by several things and the loose belt eliminated the Y-rod binding so snug that up (not to tight for now).
Each stepper driver has a small potentiometer on it that adjusts the voltage going to the motor.  This is easy to adjust and can be done several ways.  It is important to note that very small adjustments go a long way.  So find a small flat screwdriver that fits.  ideally it should be plastic or ceramic but a small glasses screwdriver will work.  Just make sure you don't short anything else on the board.  Locate the Potentiometer for that axis and (guessing here) turn it up in increments as small as you can move it.  Run that axis and you will notice the sound change.  If you tune it up or down to much the motor will stop moving so you are looking for that spot where it sounds smooth.  At this point you should be able to hold some resistance against the axis and tell where it seems to have the most torque.  I do this by pinching the Y-rod between my thumb and finger.  Just to add some resistance.  If you get to the point that it moves freely this way then it should be good to go.  If it then skips during printing you have other issues.

There's no problem moving the Y-axis with the belt removed, I made sure everything's aligned as well. The "overextruding" was remedied long ago, so it's not that it "grabs" the print and skips because of that.
I got a response back from solidoodle, with instructions on how to adjust the voltages so that's now taken care of. However! With this arose a new problem, the printer will no longer connect to the computer (or any computer). There's nothing wrong with the USB-cable itself, I tested with another one and the board even get power from it (green light's on).
I think in the worst case scenario I probably shorted something but I made sure not to poke around where I wasn't supposed to (as I said earlier, I'm no engineer or have experience with electronics so I was happy there were pictures!).
So, thoughts about a shorted board? Would the whole thing be dead or would it be possible to just change the USB-thingy?

XistenZ wrote:

wardjr wrote:

It seems as though this has been a problem for several users lately.  First (I can't emphasize this enough!) Calibration and alignment of your belts is vital.  Everything should move smoothly by hand when the drive belt to the motor is removed.  Then as a quick and dirty test reinstall the drive belt but don't tighten it too much maybe even slightly loose.  This will induce backlash but that can be adjusted out later.  The other thing that most people are intimidated by is adjusting the VREF's  It isn't that hard and there are numerous posts about the process.

The how-to video tells you to push down the motor quite firmly to tighten the belt, why would you want it even a little loose? I'll try loosen it anyway just to try things out. Still havn't heard from support so. What is the VREF? I can't find anything about it. I'm in no way an engineer and I have no experience with electronics, I got the solidoodle because it was supposedly "plug and play" of course some IKEA-tweaks here and there would be OK but when it gets to fiddling with the circuitry... Anyways, I'm rambling! VREF, what?

I am happy to help you through this.  The looser belt will reduce friction and tell us what the problem is.  it is just a test.

Yeah looser belt didn't help. I did a quick test to see how far I could come this time and it went all the way to the front with no skipping so I was optimistic, but when printing it's still skipping. I did however discover it only skips during layer-change. I checked my custom g-code if there was something there but it wasn't.
This gets weirder and weirder.

wardjr wrote:

It seems as though this has been a problem for several users lately.  First (I can't emphasize this enough!) Calibration and alignment of your belts is vital.  Everything should move smoothly by hand when the drive belt to the motor is removed.  Then as a quick and dirty test reinstall the drive belt but don't tighten it too much maybe even slightly loose.  This will induce backlash but that can be adjusted out later.  The other thing that most people are intimidated by is adjusting the VREF's  It isn't that hard and there are numerous posts about the process.

The how-to video tells you to push down the motor quite firmly to tighten the belt, why would you want it even a little loose? I'll try loosen it anyway just to try things out. Still havn't heard from support so. What is the VREF? I can't find anything about it. I'm in no way an engineer and I have no experience with electronics, I got the solidoodle because it was supposedly "plug and play" of course some IKEA-tweaks here and there would be OK but when it gets to fiddling with the circuitry... Anyways, I'm rambling! VREF, what?

I am happy to help you through this.  The looser belt will reduce friction and tell us what the problem is.  it is just a test.

It seems as though this has been a problem for several users lately.  First (I can't emphasize this enough!) Calibration and alignment of your belts is vital.  Everything should move smoothly by hand when the drive belt to the motor is removed.  Then as a quick and dirty test reinstall the drive belt but don't tighten it too much maybe even slightly loose.  This will induce backlash but that can be adjusted out later.  The other thing that most people are intimidated by is adjusting the VREF's  It isn't that hard and there are numerous posts about the process.

The how-to video tells you to push down the motor quite firmly to tighten the belt, why would you want it even a little loose? I'll try loosen it anyway just to try things out. Still havn't heard from support so. What is the VREF? I can't find anything about it. I'm in no way an engineer and I have no experience with electronics, I got the solidoodle because it was supposedly "plug and play" of course some IKEA-tweaks here and there would be OK but when it gets to fiddling with the circuitry... Anyways, I'm rambling! VREF, what?

No matter how small I print or where on the bed (my bed is also warped, like a small wave on the middle of it) it still skips. Even when it's printing in my "safezone" or what you may call it that I mentioned in my previous post.
I'm now looking into how to adjust the power the motor receives, I found out that might cause this kind of problem from googling a bit. Solidoodle have a how-to on the subject but their board and mine differ so I contacted support about it.

It seems as though this has been a problem for several users lately.  First (I can't emphasize this enough!) Calibration and alignment of your belts is vital.  Everything should move smoothly by hand when the drive belt to the motor is removed.  Then as a quick and dirty test reinstall the drive belt but don't tighten it too much maybe even slightly loose.  This will induce backlash but that can be adjusted out later.  The other thing that most people are intimidated by is adjusting the VREF's  It isn't that hard and there are numerous posts about the process.