<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/topic/571/replacement-hot-end-guide/ Mon, 10 Dec 2012 21:18:14 +0000 PunBB <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/6817/#p6817 Lawsy,

I went ahead and added an entry to the 'Modifications' page of the wiki that just links to this post.  I see that there is a partially created wiki page on this topic already where this information could be mirrored.

]]> Mon, 10 Dec 2012 21:18:14 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/6817/#p6817 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/6810/#p6810 Irish wrote:

You don't mention where you bought or what size Resistor you used as there isn't one on the OEM hot end. Also no mention if you have it of a source for a new thermistor?

Please read carefully.

I bought the resistor and thermistor as a kit with the aluminium block which is described and linked to in step 1.

I also explain in step 4 that I used the original thermistor instead of that from the kit.

]]> Mon, 10 Dec 2012 20:02:19 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/6810/#p6810 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/6771/#p6771 Roughly a 6ohm resistor would be OEM replacement.

]]> Mon, 10 Dec 2012 04:12:52 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/6771/#p6771 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/6767/#p6767 You don't mention where you bought or what size Resistor you used as there isn't one on the OEM hot end. Also no mention
if you have it of a source for a new thermistor? My reason for both these is I though I might want to build up a couple of new hot ends so I could have one ready to go in if one went down on me. Just two days after starting up my SD2 I believe I have a clogged nozzel. I need better production than that. [chuckle]

Thanks.

]]> Mon, 10 Dec 2012 02:39:17 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/6767/#p6767 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5094/#p5094 All I had lying around was ordinary plumber's thread tape. The first time I put it together, molten plastic oozed up the thread and out above the nozzle, which seems to be gone now. In the first pic you can see that my original hot end had plastic in the threads too.

Perhaps thread tape or your solution should be in place for any hot end.

]]> Sun, 18 Nov 2012 20:02:09 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5094/#p5094 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5087/#p5087 I notice you use PTFE tape on the threads. what about using hi temp anti sieze on the threads  instead of the tape.


Thanks
Dubbsd

]]> Sun, 18 Nov 2012 13:33:19 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5087/#p5087 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5074/#p5074 Just like to point out my edit in the original post for those thinking of doing the mod:

I've found that the temperature needs to be set higher for good printing with the new hot end. I put this down to the thermstor no longer reading so far under. This means that the actual temperature is probably similar, but the reported temperature is now more accurate.

I used to print at 200 but now 210 is required.

At 205 or lower I was getting filament strips on the faster extruding sections. I haven't really cranked up the pace yet but even higher might be needed for faster printing.

]]> Sun, 18 Nov 2012 04:48:43 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5074/#p5074 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5048/#p5048 Good question. Will check later today when big print is finished. Just having to restart it as two hours in the filament spool was stuck and causes the y stepper to skip a few mm. Not happy at all.

]]> Sat, 17 Nov 2012 23:39:41 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5048/#p5048 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5046/#p5046 Can you move it manually all the way by just pushing it back and forth when the motors are off?

]]> Sat, 17 Nov 2012 23:31:46 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5046/#p5046 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5045/#p5045 Currently for reasons unknown I'm unable to move the print head the entire way to the left. In the last 10mm something fould but I can't work out what. I though it was the plugs for the hot end but holding them out of the way does nothing. I've also taped the loom so it comes out the back and this didn't fix it either.

]]> Sat, 17 Nov 2012 23:30:04 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5045/#p5045 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5043/#p5043 Try the left side.  I think there would be room there, and it wouldn't bump the door.

]]> Sat, 17 Nov 2012 23:25:18 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5043/#p5043 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5041/#p5041 I'm too reliant on the fan to ditch it. Upcoming will be a new fan shroud to fit over the new hot end. Might change the style though, getting one to fit nicely will it very bulky.

The other one was too bulky for my liking, but credit to Ian's original design because I couldn't really find anywhere to make it smaller or more efficient.

]]> Sat, 17 Nov 2012 23:16:19 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5041/#p5041 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5039/#p5039 I guess you are bailing on the cooling fan?  I wonder if the block could be machined to a small cylinder and still work effectively. As soon as school ends in a few weeks, I will be trying the Bowden set up and would like to move to different extruders and cooling fan setup. This one seems promising.

]]> Sat, 17 Nov 2012 23:10:55 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5039/#p5039 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5036/#p5036 Before the PID change was made, it was bloody slow. After, it seems to have the same performance.

I think insulation would be a good idea just to help it heat faster and then use less power to maintain that heat. The surrounding components at this stage seem fine. IR thermometer on the peek barrel has it at ~135 degrees C.

One thing I think is happening is more accurate temp readings. The old setup had the thermistor on the outside of the nozzle, where as now its inside the block in between the nozzle and the heater. I'm printing at 205 or 210 instead of the previous 200 and this is getting good results.

]]> Sat, 17 Nov 2012 23:05:21 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5036/#p5036 <![CDATA[Re: Replacement hot end guide]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/5026/#p5026 Thanks for the guide! I'm looking forward to getting my parts from BilbyCNC.

Two questions for you - how quickly does this heat up in comparison to the old nozzle?
Have you had to insulate the hot end to minimise any damage to the carriage or any other component?

]]> Sat, 17 Nov 2012 22:35:47 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/5026/#p5026