Set up a brim for the item in Slic3r.  2-4mm is standard and this should allow you to print without curling. 

Also make sure that the print bed is fully heated so the glass has soaked up the heat.  Usually heat the bed to temp and let it sit  for 10 mins or so to allow the heat to distribute fully.

Elmer's is pretty harmless.  It should just scrape off the glass without problems, but you could remove it with a wet rag if you have to.  Krazyglue on glass is mildly effective, but you'd be better off buying acetone and using some failed prints to make a ABS slurry to paint the glass.  Just take 2-4oz of acetone and melt about 2-4g of abs into it.  I recommend using very small or thin pieces as these will dissolve more rapidly.  The acetone will turn milky, then you can paint it on with a q-tip or natural hair brush.  You could even use a paper towel if that is all you have available.  Just make sure that you have ventilation where you are printing as acetone fumes can get pretty bad if you use too much and dispose of the paper towel outside.  Letting it sit outside for a few minutes will allow the acetone to evaporate as well.

+1
I had irritating experiences with elmer's on Kapton. I went to a local glass store and bought 2 6x6 mirrors for my SD2. I spray extreme hold suave hairspray on the bed (let it dry) and print. If I am too lazy to set the brim, I put a dab of Krazy glue in the problem areas. If printing PLA, this is very helpful since you cannot recycle it (without a Filastruder?)

Worst case scenario, you can use recycled ABS and smear the slurry on the mirror/glass. Let it dry, then print with brim.
Larger print may REQUIRE a printed support of some kind.

Also make sure that the print bed is fully heated so the glass has soaked up the heat.  Usually heat the bed to temp and let it sit  for 10 mins or so to allow the heat to distribute fully.

Elmer's is pretty harmless.  It should just scrape off the glass without problems, but you could remove it with a wet rag if you have to.  Krazyglue on glass is mildly effective, but you'd be better off buying acetone and using some failed prints to make a ABS slurry to paint the glass.  Just take 2-4oz of acetone and melt about 2-4g of abs into it.  I recommend using very small or thin pieces as these will dissolve more rapidly.  The acetone will turn milky, then you can paint it on with a q-tip or natural hair brush.  You could even use a paper towel if that is all you have available.  Just make sure that you have ventilation where you are printing as acetone fumes can get pretty bad if you use too much and dispose of the paper towel outside.  Letting it sit outside for a few minutes will allow the acetone to evaporate as well.

I suppose I could try a different hairspray to see if it makes things stick more, but I hesitate to use the Elmer's glue or krazyglue solutions some people use.

I still have yet to do a careful calibration. I looked at the YouTube video by the Solidoodle tech of calibrating the Y axis, and noticed that although he said that shade at the back of the machine should remain in the bearings equally on both sides, my shaft is long enough that it protrudes. I'll need to see whether I can get things so that it doesn't move back and forth during printing.

Checking extruded rate confirmed that the printer is over extruding, as seems to be common.

I carefully leveled the bed and tried to calibrate the Z axis, but now things don't stick. I'll try a good cleaning of the Kapton tape with acetone and try again, hopefully I'll work next time.

Still pleased with the printer, although I clearly need to calibrate it, and likely should change to a glass table bed and acrylic enclosure.

That said, I'm pretty pleased right now.  I set it up, loaded a simple 1cm x 1cm x 5cm calibration block, and right out of the box it's printing perfectly.  I've not had a chance to measure it (it's still printing) to see whether it's bang on, but I'm a happy camper.

Shawn

My SD3 is arriving today, and I'm both excited, and intimidated.  I'm sure I can beat it into submission and make it work well for me, but am disappointed in the lack of formal documentation and user guides for something this expensive.  I'm going to try to put together a bit of a "getting started/user's guide" as I go through my learning process, and make it available to the community.

That said, I know that there are a tonne of great threads here on the essential things to do (calibration, backup parts to print, fixes to common problems), but has anyone already done a "How to get it up and running" guide that I've not yet seen?  Are there any threads in particular that you think I should use to help walk me through setup and such?

Thanks in advance,

Shawn

...did you read the customer support center, or either of the wikis?

That said, I know that there are a tonne of great threads here on the essential things to do (calibration, backup parts to print, fixes to common problems), but has anyone already done a "How to get it up and running" guide that I've not yet seen?  Are there any threads in particular that you think I should use to help walk me through setup and such?

Thanks in advance,

Shawn