P.s. I had some borasilcate glass cut to size the other week... 110C in just over 2 mins and not a crack in sight!

Are there threaded fixing points you can bolt it to something with?

there is 4 corner-orientated m3 boltholes in the top of the water block. Or you can clamp on the brass water barbs.

Oh - and re somewhere else you asked about bed levelling - each nozzle has its own pair of grub screws. Like any dual setup.. the idea is to pick a nozzle and level the bed against that - then align all other nozzles to the bed/nozzle #1.... yes alignment is importnat as the other 4 nozzles are very close by so any height issues will result in print problems/knocking prints/floating threads etc...

Of the beta testers - so far theres been about 5 different setups to date... One of them posted today involved 4 brass bushings, 16 screws, holding together 6 printed pieces...

And then theres the 99 different ways you can choose to drive them... Some are going single motor with complicated sliding pinion gear setups... others are using Azteeg X3-Pro's being lazy... others are using slave boards.. some are using port expanders and liberal applications of 'chewing gum and gaffa tape'

Then theres the different approaches people are taking with the 'plumbing'...

In short - these things are a few weeks out of the factory and those in the wild are considered Beta's. Theres no official mount, and theres not enough data, hard or empirical, as yet to offer any constructive advice.

So my closing statement is 'all in good time' Give it a week or two more and some viable designs will have fallen out of the process...

Also i presume that each head is levelled to each other using the grub screws? Is this difficult? It strikes me that if your bed isnt completely level that this could be a real pain?

Also are the other heads likely to drag through the print?

Cheers

P.s. I love my e3d hot end!