the metric ones are a little more expensive than the imperial ones. so just remember that 0.3mm = 0.011" if you go the imperial route.

Either option is just a few dollars. I'm in the UK and got mine on clearance in a halfords (auto chain shop) for £2

As it says in the article linked in the last post, these are used for setting valve clearance (which is why I got them when I was rebuilding the top end of a motorbike) and setting spark plugs distributor gaps etc.

in the modern world of electronic ignition and auto adjust valves you might find some of these at and old tool sale for next to nothing.

http://www.reluctantmechanic.com/using- … _gauge.php

On dialing in the printer, should I invest in a dial gauge such as the one Ian has or would the recommended paper slipping way do the trick?

Dial caliper is great, but it's chicken/egg.

you need to print the holder, but you need to setup the printer before printing.

I've been using feeler gauges,

these can be found for a few beer tokens in pretty much any car shop. they are normally used for checking the gap on spark plugs.

pretty much the same as the paper method, just a little more robust. (not going to tear)

The Panelolu can be ordered with the rotart encoder already soldered but as can be seen in my guide, there is a lot of other fiddly stuff to do anyway.

I'm not the most comfortable with soldering but I'd be willing to practice to atleast get one thing done.

I wrote this piece as a nice introduction to the 3d printing world, you might enjoy it:

http://www.soliwiki.com/3D_Printing_Har … ftware_101