SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — curling and bad bead in the back

Re: curling and bad bead in the back

null@example.com (ggunners) — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 21:57:37 +0000

Good to know. Something to remember when using off-the-shelf plate glass. -- ggunners

Re: curling and bad bead in the back

null@example.com (wardjr) — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 17:18:35 +0000

ggunners wrote:

I do not believe that borosilicate glass will warp. Have you seen actual mirror or window glass warp from the 105C temps of the bed? I thought glass had to be much hotter to bend. -- ggunners

If you use the cheap hardware glass and clamp it down it will warp to match the warped bed at least until it breaks.
That being said I have used the same cheap piece of glass since my printer was new almost a year ago. It doesn't move during prints and I can see the warped bed underneath. The hairspray just kind of acts like self leveling glue. I came up with this after I warped one with clamps.

Re: curling and bad bead in the back

null@example.com (ggunners) — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 16:59:54 +0000

I do not believe that borosilicate glass will warp. Have you seen actual mirror or window glass warp from the 105C temps of the bed? I thought glass had to be much hotter to bend. -- ggunners

Re: curling and bad bead in the back

null@example.com (wardjr) — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 15:50:26 +0000

To attach your glass just leave the kapton on the bed and spray your glass with aqua-net (both sides) it should stick to the bed after a couple of heat cycles. You can clip it into place but then you run the risk of your glass warping and causing the same problem.

Re: curling and bad bead in the back

null@example.com (mapoff) — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 15:03:47 +0000

Thank you for the help. I've been into RC helicopters and asked newbie questions, and now I'm finally pretty solid and answering question for new comers.

Re: curling and bad bead in the back

null@example.com (mapoff) — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 15:02:38 +0000

That was definitely the problem. I used the sheet of paper as a feeler gauge. I could get all the edges good, but everytime it would go to the center it was too close. Sounds like its warped in the middle. If I use a piece of glass, how do you affix the glass to the aluminum? Do I remove the aluminum tray and place the glass on top of the heater board?

Watch you fingers when you adjust the screws. I have blisters on mine from doing the process several times to check for accuracy.

Re: curling and bad bead in the back

null@example.com (COASTER19) — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 05:15:57 +0000

Yep, bed isn't level. Use the screws to adjust it. If you are still having problems, the bed may be warped and putting a piece of glass on top of the bed and printing onto it instead of the kapton should help your problem.

Re: curling and bad bead in the back

null@example.com (satman49) — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 04:31:11 +0000

Sounds like it.

curling and bad bead in the back

null@example.com (mapoff) — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 02:45:27 +0000

Hello everyone. I'm new to this 3d printing stuff. I'm using a Flashforge Creator which is a Makerbot clone. I'm printing something that is the size of the entire plate. When it starts laying the raft down there is a nice smooth bead from the front, but as it goes towards the back, the bead stops becoming straight, and is more like twist. Its mostly on the corners in the back. The front half looks incredible. I'm using Kapton tape, 110*C heated platform, and 230* for the nozzle. The material is black ABS. I haven't done this in white, but white has seemed to have less problems curling. I've wrapped a blanking around the exterior.

Its making me wonder if the plate isn't level.