Soldering within a few inches of the hotend will result in premature failure.. got zip to do with mechanical strength and entirely about the temp as Elmoret stated (leaded solder melt point can be from 220-250, well below the temp of the hotend). If you are going to do it - use leadfree at least as its higher melt point helps... but it is high unadvised to do this unless you take further precautions such as using a proper splice such as a western union splice to prevent failure, heatshrink to provide token insulation, and some vidaflex or equivalent to provide further insulation/abrasion resistance.

But its far easier to use a Ferrule

In a pinch, I've used http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4433 ; the plastic is just melt-joined onto the ferrule and easily snipped away leaving a classic uninsulated bootlace ferrule.

It isn't about mechanical strength, it is about temperature. Print temps can excepted the melting point of solder.

This shows my skill level of soldering, doesn't it? lol
But you are 100% on the temperature...forgot to type it in.
BTW, I recently ordered my E3D through Filastruder. You...are...awesome!
Hats off

satman49 wrote:

? I just received a new thermistor for the E3D,it did not come with bootlace ferruels( I use the orginal already). I cant't find any that small locally. Any suggestion for a substitute? Could I solder the wires?

I'm about 80% done assembling my E3D (just need heat shrink and AWG connectors) and I think I understand how this works...
While you can solder, it is typically a weak joint, and may break during the print since you are mounting it to a section that moves in two directions. You slide the furrels onto hooked wires so when you crimp, it creates a solid bond. Heat shrinking is to secure it further.

It isn't about mechanical strength, it is about temperature. Print temps can exceed the melting point of solder.

? I just received a new thermistor for the E3D,it did not come with bootlace ferruels( I use the orginal already). I cant't find any that small locally. Any suggestion for a substitute? Could I solder the wires?

You can solder them as long as you keep them cool, or I can send you some.

Radioshack probably has something that would work.

? I just received a new thermistor for the E3D,it did not come with bootlace ferruels( I use the orginal already). I cant't find any that small locally. Any suggestion for a substitute? Could I solder the wires?

I'm about 80% done assembling my E3D (just need heat shrink and AWG connectors) and I think I understand how this works...
While you can solder, it is typically a weak joint, and may break during the print since you are mounting it to a section that moves in two directions. You slide the furrels onto hooked wires so when you crimp, it creates a solid bond. Heat shrinking is to secure it further.

Edit: oh, yes: connectors for heater and thermistor leads. If you go with MTA100s, note that gender is *not* the same (I made this mistake).

Thanks again in advance!

To give it some extra flogging to be sure.... Used in context as an adjective, I ain't got a problem with it - guess it depends also on the context of 'irregular' - irregular to the extruder or irregular to the print. Taken at the latter, its acceptable I would think....

Define:Moire wrote:

noun
noun: moire; plural noun: moires; noun: moiré; plural noun: moirés
1.
silk fabric that has been subjected to heat and pressure rollers after weaving to give it a rippled appearance.
"a backless dress fashioned out of moire in the new fashionable colour"
adjective
adjective: moire; adjective: moiré
1.
(of silk) having a rippled, lustrous finish.
having a pattern of irregular wavy lines like that of moire.
"another video picture defect is the flickering moiré effect seen on finely patterned surfaces"

But yes, it's only accurate in description of the effect, not causation - what you said about technical uses otherwise of the name moire is correct.

So when is the last time you saw Moire on one of your prints