<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/topic/4941/help-with-rafts/ Sun, 29 Dec 2013 19:46:53 +0000 PunBB <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/45332/#p45332 I printed fan mount and zip tied to on since I couldn't figure out how it was supposed to mount. Regardless, I found little quality differentiation and removed it. That said, my prints are starting to look really great and I seem to have found a sweet spot with the Slic3r settings and .10 - .20 resolution. For the time being I'll probably stick to lower res prints since speed isn't a large factor, and the quality is superb. I appreciate all the help!

]]> Sun, 29 Dec 2013 19:46:53 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/45332/#p45332 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/45304/#p45304 I believe there is a screw hole which rests on the acrylic.  Using a screw with it allows you to tilt the whole duct assembly.  It has been a while since I used the duct, however I never felt like the screw was needed.  I never read the instructions either... oops.

]]> Sat, 28 Dec 2013 22:55:45 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/45304/#p45304 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/45301/#p45301 My 40mm fan just arrived today in fact.

In regards to #5 of the instructions (here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30828/#instructions), how does the adjusting make the fan mount parallel to the bed? Does the mount just slide on without glue/screws? Is it magnetic?

]]> Sat, 28 Dec 2013 22:36:18 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/45301/#p45301 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/45298/#p45298 I would be careful extruding with a width of less than your nozzle diameter.  I extrude support at .35mm with the .35mm nozzle and cannot go much thinner without the support failing to stick to itself.

My experiences with PLA have not been great.  It seems almost impossible to get good prints from it without a fan.  It's much harder to find the temperature for good viscosity when using PLA as well.  Since then, I print in ABS almost exclusively.  If you want better prints with PLA, I would highly recommend printing a fan shroud for your nozzle.

I used this one on my acrylic extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39462

]]> Sat, 28 Dec 2013 21:50:37 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/45298/#p45298 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/45296/#p45296 I set Default extrusion width to .48, first layer to 150%, support material to .25 (since I want this to be thin and easy to break away), and the others to 0 for default. Come to think of it, the three infill widths should probably also be set to .48. I'll test it.

]]> Sat, 28 Dec 2013 21:27:22 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/45296/#p45296 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/45295/#p45295 COASTER19 wrote:

I would reccomend not changing the feedrate and flowrate within repetier host in case you decide to use another piece of software to run your gcode.  I stopped using repetier host a few months ago and have used octoprint ever since.  It does not have feedrate and flowrate options, and since I never changed them in repetier,iswitching was as simple as dragging and dropping gcode files.  The .48 is only for the newer .4mm nozzles.  I have the .35mm version (arrived may 2013) so for my printer .42 is the correct width.  I have no idea what slic3r is doing to not have the 45 degree infill... Maybe try downloading slic3r 1.0.

If you will be selling printed items, the slop nuts are an amazing quality improving upgrade.  They're at the top of the hacks and mods section.

Do you just set .48 width for everything in advanced? There's like 7 width settings

]]> Sat, 28 Dec 2013 20:46:18 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/45295/#p45295 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/45294/#p45294 Still frustrated, but have perhaps made some steps forward. With the exact same settings, sans temp, my ABS prints turn out noticeably better than PLA prints. Besides the horrible warping, artifacts and banding is nearly eliminated. Perhaps most importantly circles seem to be true to size. Any ideas why?

]]> Sat, 28 Dec 2013 20:36:46 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/45294/#p45294 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/44983/#p44983 Figured out the skipping issue. Oddly one of the belts (suddenly?) became too taught. Most recent print came out well at .2mm.

I really appreciate all of your help. I'll look into Octoprint for sure.

]]> Mon, 23 Dec 2013 03:02:07 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/44983/#p44983 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/44979/#p44979 I would reccomend not changing the feedrate and flowrate within repetier host in case you decide to use another piece of software to run your gcode.  I stopped using repetier host a few months ago and have used octoprint ever since.  It does not have feedrate and flowrate options, and since I never changed them in repetier,iswitching was as simple as dragging and dropping gcode files.  The .48 is only for the newer .4mm nozzles.  I have the .35mm version (arrived may 2013) so for my printer .42 is the correct width.  I have no idea what slic3r is doing to not have the 45 degree infill... Maybe try downloading slic3r 1.0.

If you will be selling printed items, the slop nuts are an amazing quality improving upgrade.  They're at the top of the hacks and mods section.

]]> Mon, 23 Dec 2013 00:28:17 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/44979/#p44979 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/44977/#p44977 Wow, I had no idea that the extrusion width needed to be at .48. That certainly helped slightly. Solidoodle probably should have mentioned that.

I'm pretty much back to where I was when I opened the box, if not slightly better. I found the cross-hatch angle adjustment, but it was already at 45 degrees, and adjustments to that didn't seem to alter anything.

I haven't yet made a single piece that's good enough to sell (I sell RC car parts and have been having them printed for me). Every print has at least one major issue, be it oval circles, poor line stacking, etc. I'm printing pretty slow, so I would imagine it to be an issue with temp, flowrate, feedrate, or extruder speed. Do flowrate and feedrate need to be adjusted in Repetier under "Manual Control", or should they stay at 100?

]]> Mon, 23 Dec 2013 00:13:59 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/44977/#p44977 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/44972/#p44972 There have been many times I've felt that way about it too.  I believe slic3r has a fill angle option somewhere.  Unfortunately I'm away from the printer and on my phone for now.  As for the too thin walls, try increasing your extrusion multiplier by .05 and see if it helps.  If you have one of the newer solidoodle machines with a .4mm nozzle, I understand that the extrusion width needs to be set to .48 as well.  If you were getting good prints before, neither of these fixes may work too well.  You might want to look into KISSlicer as well.  I use it for 90% of my prints and rarely experience issues with it.  There are many threads on these forums describing setting it up.  I haven't managed to get great circles yet either, so all I can reccomend is to try the official solidoodle perfect circle calibration video.

]]> Sun, 22 Dec 2013 22:06:20 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/44972/#p44972 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/44971/#p44971 Currently has fill patter to honeycomb, but "Top/bottom fill patter" is rectilinear. Rather than the diagonal filling It's doing horizontal lines.

I'm frustrated out of my mind right now with this thing. I messed with the settings so much that I've reverted back to presets. My prints look less than great. I've played with just about every temp and nothing seems right. Layers aren't settling atop other layers smoothly, making awful wrinkles and a generally weak piece. The first layer stick fine, but it seems incomplete in that there are areas where there just isn't enough filament. Even with a very slow "small perimeters" holes look like ovals.  I know it's supposed to take work to get it dialed in properly, but I've literally made no progress, and it's frustrating and discouraging.

Oh, and it's been shifting about 1cm in the z direction with long prints about 1/2 into them...

]]> Sun, 22 Dec 2013 21:52:58 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/44971/#p44971 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/44969/#p44969 What is it doing instead with rectilinear infill now?

]]> Sun, 22 Dec 2013 21:36:56 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/44969/#p44969 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/44966/#p44966 Here's a question: before I started messing things up in Slic3er the printer would cross-hatch to fill empty space (like the first layer). By cross-hatch I mean the diagonal filling it. So to fill in a 1-layer-thick square, it would make the outline and fill it in diagonally from corner to corner, at a 45 degree angle.

It's no longer doing that. I've tried all the top and bottom fill options (rectilinear, concentric, etc.), and I've been unable to restore the cross-hatch. Any ideas?

]]> Sun, 22 Dec 2013 21:26:37 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/44966/#p44966 <![CDATA[Re: Help with rafts]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/44928/#p44928 Glad I could help!

]]> Sat, 21 Dec 2013 23:43:57 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/44928/#p44928