Also, if the clog is only in the barrel/nozzle (not up into the acrylic) then there's no need to dismantle the jigsaw (acrylic) just to get the hotend off.

Something I've done to unclog PLA (where acetone doesn't work to dissolve it) is to:

1) disconnect the hotend and remove the PEEK (Solidoodle doesn't recommend this as there's a change that you open up a gap between the barrel and PEEK leading to more clogs)
2) connect the heat core (with barrel and nozzle) and thermistor
3) hold the peek upside down with some pliers, and [carefully] bring the hotend up to temperature.  Gravity may remove much of the plastic, and pushing a guitar string through the face of the nozzle should remove the rest.

In my case I wasn't able to remove the nozzle from the barrel (I didn't have extra nuts around to be able to grasp the barrel  without damaging it) so I went this route.

Full disclosure: I learned the hard way not to do this with the thermistor disconnected.  I melted my PEEK.  To make a long story short, I really like my E3D hotend (no more clogs).

Dis assembly problems are:

A). The nozzle + heater + thermistor unit is strongly attached to the X-Y + filament driver.  No movement felt.
      How is it attached?  Friction?
      The bolts through the wooden part looks to conflict with the black filament barrel
         that looks to slide sideways into the 3 mm plexi.

B). Heater power wire unplugging
     Is there a tool for this?
     This connector is tight.   Pliers are good, but my fingers cannot hold against them.
     Pliers are not good for expanding, which is what I need to do to break the connection.

Thanks to 3d-oodler for the previous answer.

James.