SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Geting started with a Solidoodle 3

Re: Geting started with a Solidoodle 3

null@example.com (michael.t.albers) — Sat, 05 Oct 2013 03:20:54 +0000

The glass bed is a nice add-on. I went to my local hardware store (lowe's) and got them to cut a piece for me. Struck up a conversation with the employee about 3d printing and he wound up giving me eight pieces of 6x6 glass for $2!

Re: Geting started with a Solidoodle 3

null@example.com (Hazer) — Fri, 04 Oct 2013 21:43:44 +0000

Dont forget glass/mirror. Go to Joanns and get a 8"x8" mirror for $4. Clip that onto the bed. Now, when you heat up the bed, let it heat for at least 5 minutes after reaching the setpoint. The sensor is on the heat pad, so the print surface is not at that temperature for awhile after the sensor sees that temperature.

An enclosure will help with delamination and lifting on large parts.

And finish your calibrations by doing the X/Y belt tensioning and 0.42 wall thickness calibration.

Re: Geting started with a Solidoodle 3

null@example.com (billchurch) — Fri, 04 Oct 2013 20:06:05 +0000

Well the AquaNet did the trick, I also adjusted the Z-tab a bit to get the extruder closer (I can probably back that off now).

My bed is currently at 95 with no issues. I also calibrated the filament feed rate.

Have a Gallery (imgur.com below, don't have enough posts for a link) that shows the progress. The part I was printing was the 20x20 cube, I also realized I didn't have it oriented right so that probably accounted for more troubles as well, even then I ended up getting a "successful" print.

The last part you see is the start of a fan bracket so I can try printing with some PLA.

imgur _ com /a/WxsnA

Re: Geting started with a Solidoodle 3

null@example.com (michael.t.albers) — Fri, 04 Oct 2013 03:14:06 +0000

usually run my bed at 100 or 105. Aquanet is the way to go for hairspray. 3rd ingredient on the can is a vinyl polymer that really helps the abs stick!

Re: Geting started with a Solidoodle 3

null@example.com (elmoret) — Fri, 04 Oct 2013 01:04:21 +0000

100-110 should be plenty on the bed.

Have you cleaned the bed with acetone? What part are you trying to print?

Part warp sounds like you need an enclosure, search around on here - there's plenty of designs.

Re: Geting started with a Solidoodle 3

null@example.com (billchurch) — Fri, 04 Oct 2013 01:00:02 +0000

I've had the bed up to 118, it actually seemed to stick there, but the part starts warping around the 3rd layer anyway.

I only have "fancy" hairspray "Aussie" I need to run to the store to get something else obviously, will try in the AM.

Need to switch computers to post pics, will post a follow up in a bit.

Re: Geting started with a Solidoodle 3

null@example.com (elmoret) — Thu, 03 Oct 2013 22:47:49 +0000

What temperature is the bed heated to?
Have you applied hairspray?
Pictures?

Geting started with a Solidoodle 3

null@example.com (billchurch) — Thu, 03 Oct 2013 22:25:38 +0000

Got everything setup to Repetier Host on my OSX box, communication is working ok.

Tried my first print and she's not sticking. I did some adjustments on the bed, the front was a bit lower than the back, tested with some copy paper and got it so that the paper just drags at all screw locations.

I've set my print speed to 5mm/s for the first layer, and set the width for the first layer to 150%. It seems to just want to drag the filament all around.

I did notice that on the X-Axis gantry the rear guide has a lot of slop in it, is this by design or should I tighten that up?

Any thoughts, went through these suggestions in the "Plastic won't stick" sticky without success.

I'm using the starter filament that came with the Solidoodle. I have a reel of PLA but figured it would be best to get it working with the starter first before I move on.

Thoughts? What should I be looking at?