1) I lapped the bed another round. Hey, I had it off already.
2) I added angle clips that hold the side of the glass, but don't press down on it
3) I re-leveled (and re-leveled, and re-leveled) the bed. Accurate to about 0.07 mm now.

....and the pattern is -almost- gone.

My conclusion ? Yeah, its due to the bed being warped. But it is fixable. You can probably get good flat glass and not have to monkey with lapping the bed, but you will need to make sure everything is super-level when it's time to print. Use a dial gauge to make sure.

Keep in mind, I'm not sure it really is the glass, either

When you go the glass route, look for clips that hold the sides, and don't clip on the top of the glass. I'm using binder clips atm, and I can see the glass flex when I put the last clip on, so that may be -my- problem. When I get a chance, I'm going to find something better.

Wonder what the most reliably flat glass that you can generally find locally is...

I don't believe thats the root cause of the problem, however. Even with the 'fixed' plate, I still get those bumps on large flat areas I'm beginning to wonder if maybe my glass has microscopic bumps....

My Slic3r version is 0.9.10b sooooo I don't even know. Seems like you have a higher version, but are you on a Mac or a PC? I'm on a Mac, but I didn't think the software was any different at all.

I'm on PC (Windows 8).

I also found out that the actual metal print bed on my unit isn't actually flat!  The stupid thing bows to be closer to the nozzle in the middle.  Ugh.  Eventually I'm going to just use this to help me build a completely different 3d printer...

I'm still trying to figure it out.

gettingbored wrote:

Hum I see settings for extrusion width, is that what you're refering to? Also, there is a "Flow" section but the only variable mine contains is "Bridge flow ratio"

Does your software have more options? haha

Right under "default extrusion width" there should be a "first layer" setting.  You can punch in a percentage amount.  This is in Slic3r 0.9.7.

That's funny, I can see you're building the same carriage upgrades I am

Heh, I already printed them and installed them. Still, the rods that came with the Solidoodle are pretty rough, and the bearings tend to make a bit more noise than I'd like. If there was a local place to get smooth metric rods that are plated or polished I'd upgrade them in a second. I highly recommend getting new rods with the upgrade for maximum smoothness and quietness.

My Slic3r version is 0.9.10b sooooo I don't even know. Seems like you have a higher version, but are you on a Mac or a PC? I'm on a Mac, but I didn't think the software was any different at all.

Hum I see settings for extrusion width, is that what you're refering to? Also, there is a "Flow" section but the only variable mine contains is "Bridge flow ratio"

Does your software have more options? haha

Right under "default extrusion width" there should be a "first layer" setting.  You can punch in a percentage amount.  This is in Slic3r 0.9.7.

That's funny, I can see you're building the same carriage upgrades I am

Does your software have more options? haha

johnforeman wrote:

joshhunsaker wrote:

I would personally advise Kapton with hairspray (aquanet is awesome and cheap).  Spray it on a paper towel and then daub and spread on.  Also, using an extrusion multiplier of 250% for the first layer helps adhesion tremendously without causing a loss of detail for the other layers.  I never get curling anymore with those two tricks.

+1

What software do you use to print? I don't see specific first layer settings for flow rate in Repetier.

In RH/slicer config/print settings/advanced I think there is a first layer with setting in percent or mm.

joshhunsaker wrote:

I would personally advise Kapton with hairspray (aquanet is awesome and cheap).  Spray it on a paper towel and then daub and spread on.  Also, using an extrusion multiplier of 250% for the first layer helps adhesion tremendously without causing a loss of detail for the other layers.  I never get curling anymore with those two tricks.

+1

What software do you use to print? I don't see specific first layer settings for flow rate in Repetier.

I would personally advise Kapton with hairspray (aquanet is awesome and cheap).  Spray it on a paper towel and then daub and spread on.  Also, using an extrusion multiplier of 250% for the first layer helps adhesion tremendously without causing a loss of detail for the other layers.  I never get curling anymore with those two tricks.

+1

I have had this same pattern occur when using nylon on garolite.  The garolite was not heated so I doubt its an issue of uneven heating of the bed.  I suspect moisture in the filament could be the cause of this.

Do you know if moisture in the filament gets there? Is it the storage or the manufacture of the filament, cause this is some pretty cheap filament if I recall correctly.